ClimbSE

Blog Is Moving

2011-12-07T12:46:00.001-05:00

WOW! It's has been a loooooooong time since I last posted here. To tell you the truth, I've lost most of my blogging zeal. When I started this blog 4 years ago I was 19 years old; a lot has changed since then. I'm now only a single day away from college grad status and I'll be getting married in January. In the mean time I've grown tired of writing (and reading) meaningless climbing jibber jabber. I want to hear about real climbers doing really cool stuff. Having said that, I've decided to move my blog. You can find the new one here: brionvoges.tumblr.com. The new blog will focus on photos and videos. Hopefully I'll be able to update it more often as well.

I hope you enjoy it,

Brion

Triple Crown 2011: Hound Ears

2011-10-05T11:14:00.004-04:00

Ok you've probably read nineteen other accounts of how the Hound Ears comp went down. Rain and snow. Cold. Delays. Blah blah blah. The real story at this event has little to do with climbing or weather and more to do with camaraderie among climbers. This is the real value of the Triple Crown - the sense of community that it creates among varied individuals.

Nate Draughn on Kratos (v12)

Rami Annab on Random Man (v11)

For the first year in several I was freed from the bonds of the competition itself, loosed from the shackles that constrain my perception and distort my reasoning. For the first year in several I was able to stop and take a look around. What I noticed was that in spite of the cold, in spite of bleeding fingers, in spite of crowed boulders, climbers were determined to enjoy the 1 in 365 days/year that bouldering is allowed at Hound Ears. Jimmy Webb and I were both excited to check out some projects that aren't on the comp circuit.

What we found was astonishing! As it turns out climbers haven't focused much attention at establishing difficult boulders at Hound Ears. After all, trying a project on comp day means that if you don't send you'll have to wait another year before trying again. Luckily Jimmy and I were able to clean and climb two amazing projects. The first I named Subject to Change (v11) and the second Jimmy dubbed Projections (v12). We captured both boulders (second ascents) on film along with my ascent of Kratos the previous day. I can't wait to get back to Hound Ears to check out more of the potential there.

For full competition results click here. The Triple Crown Stone Fort competition is coming up on Saturday. I wonder if competitors will get enough rest. See everyone there!

2nd Annual Stone Summit Crushville Competition

2011-09-27T00:51:00.000-04:00

If you live in Atlanta, or any other big city for that matter, you're familiar with traffic. Mathematicians may explain it using Chaos Theory, civil engineers attempt to minimize it, and average humans may recognize its variety of forms. They range from simple congestion to a complete standstill and somewhere in between is the traffic variety termed slow-and-go. The same term could be used to describe Saturday's competition at Stone Summit.

I admit, I'm not an avid competition climber and I also admit that I am not the foremost expert on rules and proceedings at ABS, SCS, or other events; but I did recognize a serious flaw in the competition's format. With nearly 200 registered competitors and only one climber allowed per 10-20 horizontal feet of wall, huge lines formed. If you didn't flash the boulder the wait time to try again could be 15-20 minutes. It made for a seriouw flash pump and quite a bit of stress. In the comp's 4 hours, I only made it on the wall 15 times. That's less than 4 times an hour! You can check out results here.

Not resting, just waiting

My favorite comp boulder

I would like to draw your attention to several other things as well.

1. Outside Magazine ranked Chattanooga, TN the best city to live in. See the October issue for more details.

2. Urban Climber Magazine has ventured a guess at the 100 best boulder problems in the USA. The Shield at Little Rock City tops the list at number 1. It seems that the folks at UCM got this one right - The Shield, no doubt, earns the title "best boulder in America." Other boulders in the Southeast made the cut as well including Golden Harvest and Crocbloc at Rocktown and Millipede, God Module, and Slider at Horse Pens 40.

3. The annual Hound Ears competition and the first leg of the Triple Crown Bouldering Series is coming up this weekend. If you haven't seen the weather forecast take a look! I can't wait to climb on real rocks for the first time in months!

See you out there!

The Beta - Hole 18

2011-09-23T10:10:00.001-04:00

After 9 consecutive years, the Triple Crown Bouldering Series is throwing a couple change-ups. If you haven't already noticed, the competitions at Hound Ears, Stone Fort (Little Rock City), and Horse Pens will be taking place on October 1st, October 7th, and November 5th respectively. In previous years each of the three competitions has occupied the first weekend of each month from October to December. Now, with only a week or two between competitions, competitors already faced with the daunting task of climbing 10 boulder problems at their limit will have to do so on consecutive weekends. The other primary difference this year will be the closure of Montlake Golf Club on October 7th for the Stone Fort competition.

Not only does this closure mean that climbers will be able to drive to and park at the Montlake Golf Club but it also means that boulders along the 18th fairway, normally off-limits, will be fair game. For competitors, this will mean more boulders to choose from and even first ascent potential. Check out the video Andrew Kronylak shot to promote the event.

The relationship between climbers, golfers, and landowners at Stone Fort/LRC has been a real success story thanks to the hard work of many at the SCC and in the local climbing community. As for me, I won't be competing in this year's Triple Crown but I will be around. Hope to see you there!

The Nature of a Boulder

2011-09-20T02:06:00.000-04:00

Today is the second day in the fifth week of my last semester of school. Most days my mind functions like a huge clock moving continuously and forcefully toward the time of my release. From this torturous tic-toc I have few escapes. An hour here, a few hours there, time for a little rest, a meal, time for a quick session at TBA. This is what I live for.

My body has neglected to cooperate fully with my demanding schedule and the heart of its resistance is located in the tissue of my fingers where several tweaks and strains have manifested themselves. Some days the pain seems to pin me to the ground, my motivation fails, and I retreat feeling broken. Most days are still good though. On the weekends I find my rest bumbling around the hills of Tennessee in search of new boulders. Sometimes I even find one.

It was just a couple weeks ago that Nate Draughn and I climbed a new boulder at Deep Creek. I decided to call it Lost in the Mourning in commemoration of the 10th anniversary of 9/11 (the day we climbed it). The boulder itself is a triangle shaped protrusion not unlike the shape of a nose. All in all the climb consists of about 7 compression moves on slopers and pinches along the bottom of the feature. I can honestly say that this is a GREAT boulder and that climbing it felt quite like a gift.

To me this is the nature of boulders: they are small gifts of the earth which a climber may claim only for only a brief moment. I have heard several times that climbing new boulders/routes is like a form of art. I disagree. Climbing a new piece of rock is not an act of creation, merely an expression of something already created. Whether climbed or not boulders remain unchanged and will remain thus long after our own departures. Here is a photo albeit a poor one.

Nate on Lost in the Mourning

It's worth mentioning that Deep Creek (yes, the sport climbing area) has some potential for boulder development as well. If you are feeling adventurous take a little hike - you don't need to go far.

That being said, I would like to draw your attention to a couple other things.

1. Joe Kinder, Andrew Bisharat, and Whitney Boland have all written reviews of A Fine Line. I'm stoked on the feedback and I can't wait for everyone to see the movie! The premier will be in Atlanta at Patagonia on October 6th. It will be screened again at Montlake Golf Club on October 7th after the Triple Crown competition. See Andrew Kornylak's blog for more info. A screen shot from the vid:

2. Several Chattanooga hard men have been busy bolting new routes at the local crag, Deep Creek. And, while I'm not going to name names, these guys deserve some serious props for all their work. Thank you!

3. Stone Summit is hosting a competition this Saturday (September 24th). It should be a fun time! Click here for the comp details.

If this post is any indication, I'm going to try out a new format on the blog. It will be more centered on reporting regional climbing activity (first ascents, repeats, access, etc.) in order to present climbers in the Southeast a clear picture of what is going on. I'm looking forward to a little change-up - I have to admit I'm extremely bored of the traditional blog format which involves relating incredibly boring days for the sake of spraying about some insignificant send.

I hope everyone enjoys and if you have any suggestions please feel free to contact me.

A Fine Line: Official Trailer

2011-09-07T09:46:00.002-04:00

Here is a trailer for the video I (and others) shot with Andrew Kornylak and Josh Fowler. It will be released in October on hdclimbingvideos.com - keep your eyes peeled.

The Coolest

2011-08-30T17:18:00.006-04:00

I haven't been posting much and I haven't been traveling much. I did make a trip to the beach with Jo Beth and her family but as far as climbing goes I've been sticking to the gym, battling the heat, and honing my skills. Always honing...

Photos I took in Apalachicola, FL:

So...

It's cool in the mornings now. And by cool I mean 65-70. It feels nice anyway. School has started again and I'm thankful that this will be my final semester. As it is, I'm having quite a difficult time staying motivated in classes like American Women Writers. I've started back at my job as well.

Now its kinda funny but at the time it was demoralizing; I had this horrible day at the gym. Feeling weak, climbing like junk, my execution was in the toilette and I went off on this horrible tangent about school and work and whatnot. Ruined my whole day thinking about it. But I got over it and I've been climbing better lately.

That day is the reason I'm writing this post right now. Climbing is always waves of strength and relative weakness. But summertime in the South has the ability to accentuate the highs and lows. Small dips, normally unnoticeable, become huge mental barriers to personal progression. I just wanted to remind everyone that a few bad days, or a bad month even, doesn't mean a lack of progression. On days when you are feeling especially unmotivated or tired, concentrate on simple things like technique or endurance. Keep in mind that the summer is coming to an end. I can't wait!

The Cool

2011-07-01T11:40:00.005-04:00

TENNESSEE! I am so happy to be HOME. Of course it's hotter here than the sun itself, but I don't care. I enjoy working up a good sweat in the gym anyway. My time in Colorado this year was amazing. It was filled with good friends, good food, and good climbing all around. I even surprised myself with ascents of boulders that I thought were beyond my ability. Now it's time to step up the game in preparation for a month long trip Fontainebleu, FR in February of 2012. I'm also considering Switzerland in March and South Africa in July. Any suggestions?

Unfortunately, I'm in very poor shape at the moment. Loss of fitness is the "dark side" of climbing outdoors for months on end. I'm not the most talented climber. My success hinges less on natural ability and more on the hundreds of days a year I spend preparing in the gym. Two-a-day workouts aren't uncommon for me. It's very disheartening therefore to witness the loss of my hard-earned gains. What's amazing though is how quickly it occurs. Over the course of my trip (5/18-6/25) I didn't visit the gym a single time. In that time my fitness and power levels dropped to about 60% of my "in-shape" max. Now I feel locked in a physical and mental battle to regain my former position.

I also start work on Tuesday and I can't wait. Work and school act to balance my life and, while I have less time for climbing, it's much more productive. Here are a couple photos that I had left over:

Nintendo!!

John's cat Diego

I don't really know when I'll have something to post next. Have a great summer everyone!

-Brion

Photo Update

2011-06-19T14:55:00.012-04:00

Well I don't have a whole lot to say but I do have quite a few photos of things we have been trying lately.

Me on Little House on the Prairie
photo: Nate Drolet

Brad on Little House
photo: Nate Drolet

Preston on Little House (check out that try hard face!?)
photo: Nate Drolet

What are you doing Brad????
photo: Nate Drolet

The first grip on the Honey Badger

Uncovering The Mote In God's Eye
photo: Brad Weaver

Brad on Mote In God's Eye

Brad on Mote in God's Eye

Mt. Evans Update

2011-06-15T15:20:00.005-04:00

I feel very lucky. Almost everyday for 3 weeks now I have been fortunate enough to enjoy the beautiful scenery, incredible boulder problems, and the company of good friends at Mt. Evans. On top of that I have been climbing very well which is always nice. I'm feeling worn out now and today is the first of 2 well deserved rest days, but I'm still hoping to scrape out a couple more boulders while I'm here. Here are a couple shots John got of me on things I've been trying:

Big Worm (v14)

Me on Vanilla Sky (v13)

Friends have been climbing well too. Here are some photos I took:

Preston on the Great War for Civilisation (v13)

Brad on Phobos (v10)

Also, here is a super nice shot that Ivo Penchev took of me on To You Scattered Bodies Go. You can check out Ivo's awesome website for more.

Moving Forward

2011-06-14T08:17:00.007-04:00

Well I'm up at 5 am because my skin is on fire. It's really incredible that this is the first time in 3 weeks of intense bouldering that my skin has given me any trouble. I'll probably be taking a couple days off to heal it up before heading back out to the boulders. I think I need a couple days to recover mentally as well. I've found that trying boulders at my personal limit is more exhausting mentally than physically, and recently I've been feeling a little under the weather in this respect. I've also been thinking of home more and more. I am not one of those guys that can just live for months and months on the road. I need a home, a place to stretch my legs, and something apart from climbing to focus on.

More than climbing in Colorado, the future of climbing in the South is the subject of this blog post. I would speculate that the next few years are going to be a renaissance for climbing there. By comparison, the South is behind in terms of popularity of the sport and in terms of climbing difficulty (the two are probably highly correlated). Of course, access issues have always stunted the growth of climbing there, but gyms like Stone Summit in Atlanta and TBA, the local gym in Chattanooga, (among other organizations and businesses) are attempting to advance climbing throughout the region. Youth programs are growing, outdoor sports are gaining acceptance, and a motivated group of climbers is bringing the area out of it's self-imposed dark-age and into the mainstream. Climbers in the region are strictly divided on whether this movement is good or bad.

It certainly means more people at climbing areas, and again, access is a huge concern. Also at stake though is the old school feeling - peace, solitude, and friendship. I've had extended contact with both sides. My first climbing experiences were filled with secrecy, intrigue, and close friends. I remember sneaking in to Little Rock City when I was 15 and I remember the great days I had at the satellite areas around Chattanooga in complete solitude. I've also experienced several alpine seasons in Colorado, competitions, sponsorships, and new school gyms. Whatever happens in the next few years will be O.K. with me - I'm not fighting anything - I'm just excited about some new boulders. Jimmy Webb and I have a couple good leads and there I feel strong enough now to really push difficulty in the region.

I have another week in Denver before heading to Rifle for a couple days and then back to Chattanooga.

Hope to see you out there,

Brion

Back in Colorado

2011-06-06T14:17:00.006-04:00

Well there has been a lot going on lately and I haven't been posting much. I did do several posts on the 5.10 blog as Ronnie Jenkins and I traveled around doing shoe demos and such. You can check them out here if you feel so inclined. Now I'm in Denver hanging out with John Gass. We have been climbing almost every day for a week now and I'm very pleased with how it's been going. Thus far, most of our time has been spent at Lincoln Lake enjoying the boulders established by Dave Graham and Daniel Woods last summer. Here are a couple photos that John took of me:

We Can Build You (v14)

The Exfoliator (v12)

We've also spent some time cleaning some new boulders. One in particular is really nice. The boulder is slightly less than vertical with a line of crystal holds leading to the top. We decided to call it Another Tomorrow (v5).

Another Tomorrow (v5)

Tangerine Man (v8)

We will be heading back tomorrow and I'm already excited about it - I love alpine bouldering!

Summer Plans

2011-05-17T12:14:00.005-04:00

Well my summer plans have finally come together. I'm heading out on Thursday to the New River Rendezvous with Ronnie Jenkins to rep 5.10. I've only been to the New once before and I've never been to the Rendezvous so I don't know what to expect but I would really like to try a route there called Still Life (5.14b). This one will be the hardest route I've ever even tried but it's short and bouldery looking so maybe I stand a chance. I just hope it doesn't rain. Then Ronnie and I are gonna be heading on a little road trip doing some 5.10 shoe demos and hanging out. You can follow our trip on the 5.10 blog here where I'll be posting a bunch of PHOTOS and WORDS that you will NEED TO READ.

My ULTIMATE DESTINATION will be the couch at John Gass's apartment in Denver - a place that seems to have become my home-away-from-home in the past couple years. I'm really looking forward to climbing at altitude again. A bunch of guys from THE SOUTH are gonna be around too so it should be an awesome time. My goals for the trip are 1) remain uninjured 2) climb boulders. I think it will be quite a successful trip!

See you out there,

Brion

Colorado Bouldering Video

2011-03-21T16:06:00.003-04:00

Here is the short we have been working on, it turned out really well. Enjoy!

I'm embedding this from the Denver airport; I don't have much else to say.

later,

Brion

Front Range Bouldering

2011-03-20T19:48:00.022-04:00

I have a lot of stuff to post. First of all, big thanks to 5.10 and Organic for making this trip happen. When Brad and I showed up in Denver I had a brand new pad waiting for me. I opened her up and took the box out to the trash chute. It didn't really fit...

Secondly, John, Brad and I have been working on a video showcasing most of the boulders we have been climbing on here in CO. It should be on the web by mid-week so look out for it. Here are some screen shots:

I've also been shooting some photos - probably not as many as I should. Here they are:

Now my skin is thrashed and we head home tomorrow. It has definitely been a good trip and I'm looking forward to coming back out in June for the alpine season. Until then I'm gonna try to climb some routes. One of my all time climbing goals is to climb 5.14 - a goal I believe is well within my ability. All I need is some endurance. Stay tuned for the video...

-Brion

Quick CO update

2011-03-17T13:09:00.003-04:00

We've been chillin' in Denver for the last week and things have really been going down. So far I've been able to climb Fantasia (v13), Dark Waters (v12), Bambi (v11), Elegant Universe (v11), Elegant Infinite (v10). It's worth mentioning that Fantasia, after my ascent, has reached a consensus grade of v13 - not v14. Brad and John have been climbing really well too. We are heading up to Fantasia again today so that Weaver can finish it off, then back to Eldorado Canyon tomorrow morning so I can finish Suspension of Disbelief (v13). I managed to fall off the last move on Tuesday and I can't wait to top it out. So far we have captured every ascent on film so be on the lookout for some video soon. I guess that's about it...

-Brion

Dont post videos of boulders in access sensitve areas!

2011-03-08T10:31:00.005-05:00

Recently several videos have been posted online featuring boulders in access sensitive areas around the Southeast. I'm posting this in the hope that it will stop. The bottom line is that videos mean more traffic, more traffic means greater impact, and greater impact may lead to closure of the area. Don't undermine the work everyone has done to gain access at these, and many other, climbing areas. Please, feel free to shoot video and show it to your friends; DO NOT POST IT ON THE WEB!

Alright, that being said, here is a video of me climbing the Litz line Manic Aggression (v13) and Ben Tsui climbing a new one he called Too Big to Fail (v7). Enjoy!

I'm heading to Colorado tomorrow and I can't wait!

Later,

Brion

Arkansas Video

2011-02-18T16:43:00.003-05:00

Arkansas/Epic Journey Recap

2011-02-13T21:30:00.008-05:00

I'm back in Chatt after another weekend in Arkansas. I can't even begin to describe how epic the trip was. Arkansas got 8-12 inches of snow last week and I-40 was literally a sheet of ice. Runaway 18-wheelers were wrecked in the median and traffic was stacked up for at least 50 miles. It ended up taking us 8 hours to drive the 120 miles between Memphis and Little Rock! I guess that's like 15 mph.

There was about a foot of snow on the ground when we finally arrived. It was pretty obvious that the boulders were gonna need some work if we wanted to climb. Check out this pic of Brad shoveling snow from the landing at the warm-up boulder:

When we finally rolled in Jo Beth and I headed straight out to Wood Grain Grippin' to try and dry it up. After about an hour of work I had the topout mostly clear of snow. I wasn't even planning on trying it but after watching snow melt drip from the top I got a little nervous and decided to go for it. I felt good, the friction was incredible, and after battling numb toes I was able to pull it off. Back in December I decided that finishing this boulder would be my one remaining goal for the season. I'm incredibly happy to have accomplished the task.

The next day I was also able to climb Southern Lean (v11), Shadow Jumper (v11), and Typhoon (v10). Good couple days...

Nate on War Bonnet (v5)

The epic trip continued the following day as we were forced to clear parts of the road (with a single shovel) from Fred's Cave back to the highway after stupidly driving a couple miles on mud and melting snow. It wasn't until the late afternoon that Brad and I were back at the ranch trying Welcome to Fight Club (v13), a crimpy traverse line. You can watch a vid. of Paul Robinson climbing it here. Small edges are difficult for me right now with my finger at less than 100% but I still did some good work and Brad made a few very good links.

I should have some video soon (though unfortunately none of WGG). Stay tuned...

-Brion

Gettin' Back to It

2011-02-07T10:13:00.002-05:00

So I've been getting outside a little more recently. My finger is feeling stronger and the end is in sight - almost. Unfortunately, with a job and school my status is more akin to weekend warrior than I would like. Anyway, Jimmy and I went out to Dayton yesterday with Hugh, Rami, AJ, and Andrew Kornylak to check out this roof project (now dubbed Foundation). It turned out to be sick - tension with a heal-hook through gastons, a stab to a three finger edge, a jump, and an awesome v8 finish. I think it checks in somewhere around v11 and a little harder if you're short. It was super fun to clean up and after figuring out all the beta I punted from the end like a million times - so classic. I actually ended up doing it once but dabbed on Hugh. Whatever... I'm gonna try to get back out there Wednesday before work to finish it. Until then I've got some studying to do - writing this is just another form of procrastination.

There is a big crew heading to Arkansas this weekend and I'm so psyched to get back to Wood Grain after almost doing it back in November. Stay tuned...

-Brion

Ben Shoots Video

2011-01-20T12:12:00.002-05:00

So Ben shot this video of our day at Horse Pens. Problems are Bum Boy (v3), Crystal Tips (v8), Slider (v9), and Skywalker (v8). Thanks to Ben for the work. Enjoy!

-Brion

Roots

2011-01-19T10:23:00.006-05:00

I had a great session in the gym last night - it was almost like old injury-free times. A month after I hurt it, my finger is finally doing a little better. I still can't climb on small edges but I'm hoping that in a few weeks it will be good to go. For now I'm trying to stick to good holds and slopers.

Ben Tsui and I went down to Horse Pens last weekend to slope it up. Despite snow melting off the topouts, we had a great time and I was even able to do a new boulder - Crystal Tips (v8). It's a balancy slab with a jump-start, a heinously high foot, and a mantle. FUN! I did some others as well and took some photos. Here's one:

I've come a long way in the past few years but I will always I remember climbing Bum Boy for the first time, stopping for a Coke and Doritos on our way home from Rocktown with Mr. Gass, climbing half way up the Shield and wishing the holds kept going, and having sessions at 1 AM because we were just too psyched. A day at Horse Pens with no agenda reminded me of these simpler times - when climbing was just a fun thing we did. Over the years it has somehow changed and it was nice to get back to my roots. This is why we all love climbing!

Hope everyone is lovin' it as much as I am!

Brion

Help the SCC

2011-01-04T13:34:00.006-05:00

Happy 2011 everybody! I haven't posted lately because I haven't been up to much - just training, hiking, and trying to heal my finger. I don't really know how the finger is coming along, I just know that I still can't grab crimpers. Anyway, I'm hoping that one of my hiking expeditions will yield a new cluster of boulders but so far I've found nothing worth mentioning. Private property boundaries, rabid dogs, and hunting season just complicate the matter. I snapped these shots in about 5 minutes worth of hiking:

Signs like these make you appreciate what our local Southeastern Climbers Coalition has accomplished. And speaking of the SCC, they recently announced fundraising for Deep Creek - a sport climbing crag about 25 minutes from downtown Chattanooga. If you can/want to help out, even a $5 or $10 donation would be greatly appreciated. For more information about donating just click here or the link above.

I guess that's all I have to say. Enjoy the good weather and the new year!

-Brion

Slashface vid

2010-12-25T12:49:00.002-05:00

Merry Christmas!

I haven't been climbing for a week. My finger is still messed up but the swelling seems to have subsided and it hurts a little less. I've decided to return to training in an attempt to get fit and heal my finger before it gets warm again. My remaining goal for the year is to finish Wood Grain Grippin' and I figure February will be the month.

I also edited the small amount of useful footage I got in Hueco. This is my first official video and I know it's not perfect but I hope you enjoy it!

-Brion

Five Ten: Brand of the Brave

2010-12-22T18:06:00.003-05:00

Check out this Five Ten ad! Thanks to Andrew Kornylak I'm in it at 0:22.

Merry Christmas everyone,

Brion

Hueco 3

2010-12-19T16:13:00.003-05:00

So I got super close on Nagual the other day - I fell from the end twice. Then I tweaked my pinkie finger... It didn't hurt at all and at first I thought it was just my knuckle cracking. It wasn't until I tried to weight it again that I realized something was actually wrong. Now it feels swollen but doesn't look it, and I can't crimp at all - not a good thing in Hueco. I can grab open-hand holds and I still have full range of motion but I'm super bummed that I'm not going to be able to finish Nagual or anything else this trip.

Before I hurt myself though I managed to finish Slashface and I'm happy about that. I took some shots of Brad trying it. Here's one:

I was also able to climb The Flame (v11), The Egg (v8), and Loaded Direct (v11 or 12?). Now I'll be taking some time off and I'm happy to be going home for Christmas on Tuesday. Good food and fun await. I'm also gonna be working on editing footage from the trip.

Until next time,

Brion

Hueco 2

2010-12-15T18:36:00.005-05:00

Went out yesterday to East Spur to try Nagual (v13). It was way harder than I expected but I was able to do all the moves and make a couple good links - I'll be back to finish this one as well. We also tried Coeur de Leon (v12/13) and thanks to Brian A. and some clutch beta it will definitely go. Brad was able to finish off Full Monty (v12) and I got some good shots. Here's one:

I'm feeling super close on everything but so far I've been unable to actually send anything. We're headed out to East tomorrow and hopefully I'll be able to finish Slashface.

See ya out there,

Brion

Hueco 1

2010-12-13T16:38:00.005-05:00

Days 1 and 2 of Hueco 2010 are in the books. On day 1 Brad Weaver and I went up to try Bleeding Brothers (v12). The boulder revolves around these toe-hooks in a huge hueco. I don't know whether it's my height or if I'm just not strong enough, but I couldn't make it work. I was able to figure out some other crazy beta though and after a couple hours I was able to put it together. I captured the send on my new camera as well but you're gonna have to wait to see it. Brad was close but the boulder is super spread and he looked like he was strung out on a medieval torture device. We also tried Esperanza (v14) and I was able to do all the moves and make a couple good links - I'll be back.

Then yesterday we got out to East Mountain to try Slashface (v13). I got super close and I'm looking forward to getting back and finishing it off. Brad and Jimmy were both psyched on Full Throttle (v13) - a boulder I was lucky enough to climb on our last trip - and both were doing really well. Here's a picture I took of Jimmy on it:

We are heading out to the East Spur tomorrow to try Nagual (v13).

See ya out there,

-Brion

Chimney Rock State Park and Rumbling Bald Boulders

2010-12-08T11:22:00.003-05:00

Some information has made it's way to me via Nate Draughn about access at Rumbling bald. Here is the official memo:

The North Carolina Department of Environment and Natural Resources recently released a draft of the Chimney Rock State Park Master Plan for public comment until December 13. The draft plan is available online at www.greenways.com/chimneyrock_download.html.

Chimney Rock State Park includes the classic Rumbling Bald cliffline and boulderfield. In additionaly the park includes or is slated to include several lesser-known, high quality cliffs such as Ghost Town, the north side of Rumbling Balk, Eagle Rock, Cloven Cliffs, and the cliffs of the Chimney Rock attraction. Some of these outlying areas have 20+ years of climbing history.

The Chimney Rock State Park Master Plan will guide land management in the park over the next 20 years. Currently this plan makes misguided statements about the impacts of climbing and endangers the future of climbing in Hickory Nut Gorge.

The Carolina Climbers' Coalition and the Access Fund are working together to provide key comments regarding climbing access and management. Help ensure climbers' voices are heard. Urge park planners to protect current and future climbing access in Chimney Rock State Park by visiting the Access Fund website and using their letter-writing tool.

The park planners need to hear you thoughts today.

If you are willing, just take a second and help out the Carolina Climbers' Coalition and climbers across the Southeast who use the facilities at Chimney Rock State Park.

Thanks,

Brion

Triple Crown, Stone Fort/LRC

2010-12-05T11:27:00.005-05:00

Saturday, with rain clouds overhead, 400 climbers filed onto buses in order to compete in the final leg of the Triple Crown. 20 minutes later as the buses rolled to a stop in front of Montlake Golf Club the rain was already beginning to fall. I was feeling super rushed and my first 5 times off the ground I climbed Brian's Bain (v1), Dragon Lady (v4), Tri-star (v4), Dragon Man (v9), and The Law (v11). But the rain calmed down and so did I.

I moved toward the back of the field and climbed The Shield (v11), Biggie Shorty Extension (v12) and New Sensations (v10). At this point a crazy cloud moved in and a misty rain began to fall. Everything became super difficult and I began failing. I couldn't climb Electric Boogaloo (v10), The Chattanoogan (v12), Reflections (v10), or I Think I Can (v9). At this point I had holes in two fingers and a split in one - a consequence of trying to climb on wet crimpers. I needed some good holds and so I moved over to do Robbin' the Tooth Fairy (v9) and Blind Spot (v7). At this point it was downright soaked but I managed to eek out sends of both boulders. Deeming it too dangerous to continue, judges began herding competitors toward the buses. It was over and I was glad. All in all, I had a great time climbing with Ronnie and hanging out with a bunch of fun people. I even placed 2nd in both LRC and overall! Check out the Triple Crown results page for the full results.

I leave for Hueco Friday and until then I'll be studying for exams. Also, thanks to everyone at Triple Crown for all your hard work.

Later,

Brion

Another Arkansas Weekend

2010-11-30T01:06:00.006-05:00

So we spent Thanksgiving weekend in Arkansas. I can't even express the love I have for that place - it is by far my favorite climbing area. Life there is slow and uncomplicated; there is no cell service, no crowds, no rush, nothing at all except friends, rock climbing, farm animals, and the Ozark Cafe.

As far as climbing goes, I was really amped to give Wood Grain Grippin' (v14) some efforts this trip and so Jimmy and I made our way out there on day 1 to see what we could do. I learned that due to a tendon injury last year I couldn't grab the weird 3 finger undercling like everyone else - I have to get 4 fingers on it from the start. That means a much more difficult first move but a proportionally easier finish. Jimmy and I both had several near send attempts before he hurt his finger and I'm super psyched to return in December to try and finish it off.

In the mean time friends Hugh and Jacob were enjoying their introduction to Arkansas bouldering climbing on all the classics like Glass Bowl, Flash Gordon, Fred's Cave, Jeff's Prow, and Ab Lounge.

Anyway, Jimmy and I were able to finish the trip off right with sends of The Dirty 30 (v12). Here's a vid. of me climbing it:

Also, John Gass put together a vid. of me climbing the Whole Shebang a while back. Check it out:

Exams are coming up and I'm about to get super busy. But Hueco is also around the corner - we leave next Friday!

Later,

Brion

The Roof

2010-11-24T11:29:00.004-05:00

Lately I've been super unmotivated in the gym. Problem is, between school, work, and crappy weather I don't have the time to get out much. But the semester is about done and I'll be heading to Hueco in two weeks! I've got some serious goals there including Esperanza, Slashface, and Nagual. In anticipation of climbing in the Martini cave, a bunch of us went up to Dayton on Sunday to climb on the roof. It had been a couple years since I last climbed on it and I was expecting to feel uncoordinated and week on such steep terrain. I did at first but after I got nice and warm the roof felt like an old friend. I was able to repeat a couple of the difficult lines including The Whole Shebang (v12) - a 29 move pump fest Ronnie and I spent a lot of time on a couple years ago. Weaver also killed it for the 4th ascent. We spent the rest of the day repeating classics.

We are heading back out to Arkansas this weekend. On the list are Wood Grain Grippin', Forever Botany, and Dirty 30. Very Psyched!

Happy Thanksgiving everyone,

Brion

Lost in the Hood and Weekend Recap

2010-11-16T09:35:00.008-05:00

Ok, here are a couple videos from this weekend and one that's not. Props to Jimmy for the vids. Enjoy:

I can't even believe how this weekend went. We (Jimmy, Nate, Rami, and I) finally rolled down the hill into Horseshoe Canyon Ranch at midnight Friday after the 9 hour drive. It was raining.

When we woke up Saturday fog and clouds were lingering but boulders were dry - and it was finally cold! We decided to head up to try The Anti-Hero (v12) and after climbing Jeff's Prow (v9), made our way to the other side of the boulder. It felt hard! The second move for me is super bunchy and feels very violent and powerful. I wasn't even sure I could do it at first. I took a break and decided to try the boulder just to the left, Loved by Few Hated by Many (v12). It was a boulder I couldn't really touch last year. In a few tries though, I had worked it out and was able to send. It is one of my all time favorites. In the mean time Nate and Rami climbed Flash Gordon (v10) - Nate's old nemesis - and Jimmy climbed The Anti-Hero. I re-focused my attention and was able to climb to the last move on Anti-Hero before blowing it. But I had tried hard and was super tired. Jimmy and I wanted to get some attempts Wood Grain Grippin' (v14) before dark as well so we packed it up.

Wood Grain felt hard as well and after trying it for a bit neither Jimmy nor I was able to send. I broke the left start foot, making the first move a little more difficult. Jimmy and I were also having trouble keeping our foot on the next left foothold. The rock here is not the best and it seems that the key high left foot is crumbling a little. How well this one will stand the test of time seems in question (the finish jugs are thin as well) - I just hope to climb it before it becomes impossible.

I woke up Sunday morning sore but psyched to try and finish off the Anti-Hero. After a little work I was able to do so. Rami quickly finished Jeff's Prow as well and Nate was making good attempts on Loved by Few. But Nate and Rami were both psyched to go check out Fred's Cave and so that's what we did.

It was packed! There were probably about 20 people hanging out around the roof - I haven't ever seen 20 climbers in one spot in Arkansas. Anyway, Jimmy and I were just chillin' out waiting to go try Lost in the Hood (v14) and once it started cooling down we headed over.

The boulder was gross. There was some wet green slime and a bunch of mud in the right start hold. We did out best to clean it out but our expectations were low. I pulled on the wall and tried hard. Immediately I knew it was possible. I was expecting it every try and eventually I just did the move and took it to the top. It was an unbelievable feeling!

Then Monday before we left we went to check out a new line in Cowell called Off the Rails (v10). It turned out to be one of the nicest lines I've seen in Arkansas. Very good rock and very nice movement.

I guess that's it,

Brion

Horse Pens blog

2010-11-09T09:03:00.002-05:00

I wrote a Horse Pens blog on the 5.10 site. Click here to read it. We are gonna be heading to Arkansas this weekend and I'm getting super excited. Stay tuned for that.

-Brion

HELP the SCC

2010-11-03T11:09:00.002-04:00

The Southeastern Climbers Coalition is a candidate to win a $250,000 in the Pepsi Refresh Project. All we need to do is vote - everyday.

Here is the link. Please help us out and give a vote for access in the Southeast. Even if you don't live in the Southeast, maybe you'll visit one day. VOTE!!!!!

-Brion

Boone Vid

2010-10-28T08:40:00.001-04:00

Brad put together a vid of our trip to Boone last week. It's super good. Check it:

-Voges

More Boone photos

2010-10-23T12:40:00.005-04:00

We were out from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. yesterday in Boone - long day. I was able to finish off the Big Black Crack which I am stoked about. Anyway, here are a couple pictures I took of Rami trying Sinderella (v12):

I guess that's all for now...

-Brion

Boone photos

2010-10-20T10:11:00.004-04:00

I didn't take a lot of photos in Boone but I thought I would share these:

Nate spotting Tyree the wooly worm at Blowing Rock

Nate on Sunday Service

Nate on Sunday Service again

The crew is heading back to Boone tomorrow. I'm really hoping to put Black Crack together and I would love to finish of Don Johnson (v11) as well. I've been sick the past couple days so I'm hoping I feel better by then. Psyched!

-Brion

Boone

2010-10-18T18:06:00.002-04:00

Boone is sick. I am so psyched on the Big Black Crack. I tried it this weekend but it didn't come together for me and I can't wait to get back to it. Talk about tuffa pinches on an overhang!

Here's the vid of jimmy climbing it and me doin' Random Man:

Got fall break this weekend and we will be back in NC. Can't wait!

-Brion

The Weekend

2010-10-07T09:34:00.003-04:00

I pulled my '93 Jeep Cherokee off the interstate on Friday with a smoking engine and on Monday dropped it off with a mechanic. Turns out I "blowed a gasket head" and my car is virtually worthless. For now I'm just bumming around but I'm going to have to cough up the money for a new car soon. I don't yet know how this is going to affect my climbing plans over the next year but it's not looking good.

Anyway, Saturday was the Hound Ears comp. It felt really tough this year and I failed on a lot of boulders. Hanging out with the crew was super fun though and I'm psyched to have a great group of guys around this season. The thing that Triple Crown does best is bring everyone together. It may not be very fun climbing next to 400 of your best friends but it is fun hanging out once the climbing is done.

On Tuesday Jimmy, Nate Draughn (Chattanooga's newest resident), and I went out to LRC. We climbed a lot of boulders, even a new one - a one move undercling problem on a short boulder left of the trail just before Super Mario. In the new guide I believe they call it v10 but after claiming a flash a piece Jimmy and I agreed it's probably more like v9.

We are also camera-less at the moment. I would really love to buy a new one but after the car incident and while saving for trips this winter I'm not sure if I'm gonna be able to afford it. I think we are gonna head down to Horse Pens this weekend despite the predicted heat - at this point I think everyone is tired of climbing indoors.

Lata,

Brion

Dunkie Doobie v10

2010-10-05T21:44:00.002-04:00

So here is a really old video of me climbing a problem at Little Rock City. I was 16.

Thanks to John Gass for the edit and for keeping all this old footage.

Later,

Brion

5.10 demo @ Hound Ears

2010-09-30T09:04:00.005-04:00

I had a great campus session last night. Until now, a lingering pulley injury has prevented me from getting on the campus board. But my finger has been feeling better and I just decided to go for it. Anyway, I'm glad I did - I will at least have a little confidence going into the Hound Ears comp.

I got a new pair of shoes as well - more team 5.10s - and I spent some time last night breaking them in. I know I've mentioned it before, but I love these shoes! They make me look good. I'm also looking forward to (and you should too)the 5.10 demo at the comp this weekend. Fiveten is going to have full demo runs of all the new shoes - Blackwings, Hornets, Quantums - get psyched to climb in some shoes that aren't even for sale yet!

Until then,

Brion

Self-control

2010-09-28T23:21:00.004-04:00

I think of myself as having a high level of self-control. To think otherwise would be to doubt in my ability to succeed in life.

psyche

2010-09-16T08:47:00.009-04:00

It seems that everyone is getting stuff done...except me. School is in full effect now and time for climbing seems to be disappearing. I've been getting into the air-conditionerless gym a lot though - really the only viable option this time of year being that it's still 90 degrees in Chatt. Jimmy and I have set some hard boulders including simulators of both Lost in the Hood and Wood Grain Grippin'. I'm determined, and I've begun to feel that its possible, to climb my first v14(s?) this winter. I've also been working - saving for a trip to South Africa in June - I'm very psyched. The list of boulders to climb there is huge, I mean it's SOUTH AFRICA for christ's sake!

Anyway, relief is in sight as far as the weather goes - some trees have started to change colors (though I'm not sure if it's due to falling temperatures or lack of rain) and October is around the corner. I can't wait until it cools enough for projects around the South and Arkansas weekends.

I've also been climbing in some of the new 5.10 phantoms and I would like to give them a small shout out. The Phantoms are a purple, downturned, lace-up perfect for routes but still good on boulders. They climb well on both faces and overhangs, fit in pockets, are solid on edges and can even smear! They fit very similar to the Anasazi lace-ups. Though you can't buy them yet, be on the lookout for these and a bunch of other new models this fall and spring.

Finally, I wanted to post some links to vids that are gettin' me psyched. Here they are:

Paul Robinson climbing Lost in the Hood (v14)

Paul Robinson climbing Wood Grain Grippin' (v14)

Jesse Bonin climbing Derailed (v14)

Nalle climbing Sky (v14)

Late,

Voges

Back in Action

2010-08-22T15:40:00.003-04:00

Well I just got back from the beach - 7 days with no climbing - and I devised a new training plan. I can't wait to implement it. I guess I don't have a whole lot else to say but I'll be checking in periodically about training and other stuff.

Later

Stone Summit

2010-08-11T10:23:00.009-04:00

I drove down to ATL on Monday with Jimmy to check out Stone Summit. Report: the place is sick - by far the coolest gym I've seen. The walls are huge (to lower from the massive roof you need a 70 meter rope), the holds are cool, the staff is friendly; there's a workout room, kiddie area, treadmills, snack bar, retail store, and some stellar bouldering. The thing that's missing: a campus board. But supposedly its in the works. I am very psyched to have this place just down the road.

I also thought I would post some pictures from my dad and I's little trip to the Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks.

Trade Show and Other Stuff

2010-08-07T12:49:00.006-04:00

I was at the trade show Tuesday and Wednesday. It's always interesting to see new product and talk with all climbing's athletes. I'm happy to say that Five Ten and Organic both have some really impressive new products. Organic is now making stellar backpacks - a cragging model, and a bullet style pack. Check them out if you're in the market for a new pack. And Five Ten will be adding several new shoes to their already impressive line this spring. Look forward to a slightly stiffer Project, a downturned anasazi verde, and an amazing new lifestyle/skate/bike shoe called the dirtbag.

Otherwise, Ben Tsui is in town and we've spent the last couple days climbing. Yesterday we were at Lincoln Lake where I repeated a couple moderates - Chalk on Rock (v8) and Brian Capp's new one - Cloak of the Tiger (v8). I also did this super scary slab climb. It was a fun day outside and a good last day in Colorado. That's right, I'm heading home and I'm very excited about it.

Here are a couple pics Ben took:

The Slab

I'm pretty psyched to get home and start training again and I can't wait to check out the new gym - Stone Summit.

Oh, and check out LT11's Pogo series:

Have a good rest of the summer everyone.

Brion

Laying In Wait

2010-07-29T14:26:00.004-04:00

Its been raining a lot lately but we've gotten in some climbing. And the rainbows have been nice...

Yesterday John and I went to Lincoln Lake. John made quick work of Chalk on Rock (v8). And I tried Daniel's newest v14, The Exfoliator. I did all but the second move which felt quite hard and awkward. I even did what I thought would be the crux (the final move to an undercling) first try. Photo:

Afterwards John and I decided to go try the v8 slab Laying in Wait. It's a very friction dependent boulder (slopers) and the summer weather was less than ideal. Somehow I managed to slap my way to the top. Check the video:

That's all for now,

Brion

Another

2010-07-25T14:48:00.003-04:00

My motivation has been suffering lately. After a full summer of hiking and climbing it seems that all I want to do is sit on the couch, watch a movie, and eat some good food. John and I have been to Movement a couple time though to test the endurance. Turns out mine's not very good. I've noticed that no matter the difficulty of the route, whether it be 12d or 13c, I can make it about 3/4 the way up the steep wall before losing steam. It's been fun though, a nice change of pace from bouldering. But my left middle finger has been giving me some trouble - another pulley... So I wont be competing the trade show comp. As for bouldering outdoors there are a couple more things I would like to cross off my list before the summer is up and yesterday I was able to get one done - I Comb My Hair Like God (v11).

John Gass and I met Jon Glassberg and Ryan Silven in upper chaos and after figuring the beta Glassberg pulled it off. After a little more effort and the loss of all my gym skin I finally figured out the body positions and did it. It's starting to feel more and more like summer in the park. That is, there are more mosquitoes, less snow, and afternoons are hotter than ever. I have another couple weeks before I'll be back home in the real heat and until then I'll be out climbing...

Brion

The Amazing Red Bull

2010-07-15T16:16:00.009-04:00

Yesterday John sat a half full Red Bull can on top of the car, forgot about it, drove from Lincoln Lake to Idaho Springs (about 20 switchbacking miles), stopped at McDonalds for a McFlurry and upon returning to the car noticed the Red Bull can still standing upright on the roof of the car. Amazing...

Other than that though not much has been going on - the weather has been limiting. It seems that every climbing day is plagued with heat, rain, humidity or a combination of the three. I thought I would post some pics though so here they are:

Nate climbing a slab at Lincoln Lake

Nate flashing Potato Chip (v7)

Me trying to figure out the slot project at Lincoln Lake

-Brion

Lincoln

2010-07-06T15:25:00.006-04:00

We went up to Lincoln Lake again yesterday... It was a nice day - sunny and windy.

After the warm up I was feeling pretty good and I was psyched on trying Daniel's The Great War for Civilisation (v13). I ended up falling off the last move 4 times... bummer. The last move is this huge right handed lurch to a sidepull sloper. The hold is extremely difficult to see and hitting it right is tough. From there its a simple left hand move to a jug. Here's a picture Nate took of me midway through the boulder. (the last hold is at the very top of the frame). next time...

On the bright side I ended up climbing this beautiful slab/face for its first ascent. The boulder starts on a nice protruding shelf feature with a big right foot and climbs up and right over another boulder. It ended up being a dyno from the shelf up and right to a sidepull jug at the lip. The downside is that you have to pick your feet up really high to avoid dabbing on the other boulder. I decided to call it Purple Is Not a Color. As for the grade, v10 seems appropriate though it may be easier (its an extremely weird problem). Here's a pic:

Also, here is a video of Nate climbing Unshackled and Whispers of Wisdom:

-Brion

Unshackled v10

2010-06-30T00:12:00.001-04:00

Here's a quick video of John Gass climbing Unshackled at Lincoln Lake:

-Brion

Videos

2010-06-27T17:25:00.004-04:00

Ok so here are the videos as promised. Enjoy.

Part 1:

Part 2:

Park Days

2010-06-27T13:11:00.006-04:00

The past few days at the park have been fun and I've been able to get up a few boulders as well. Most notably I was able to climb Nuthin but Sunshine (v13). We have gotten lots of video and it should be up in the next couple days. In the mean time here are some photos:

Me on Golden Rows of Flows (v10)
photo: Jimmy Webb

John on Golden Rows of Flows
photo: Jimmy Webb

John on Barbed Wire Beard (v10/11)

- Brion

Success

2010-06-22T13:45:00.009-04:00

So I cut my hair - shaved it. Well not fully shaved, but its about a quarter of an inch long and after quite a long string of failures I was even considering war paint on climbing days but fortunately it never came to that.

Sunday was a great day and we got it all on video (check the hair). Here it is (my first edit):

and here is a picture I took of Nate climbing Gangbang (v8):

I owe some of my success to the fact that I got some new shoes. All I have to say is that the Team 5.10s are the best shoes ever made. Their perfect mix of sensitivity and edging power along with a bomber heal and the best rubber on the market have really helped me get up some boulders lately. Check them out!

-Brion

Failure

2010-06-11T14:38:00.002-04:00

Climbers are intimately familiar with failure. It haunts their projects and looms eerily overhead until vanquished by some stronger force. Recently I have been lost in a fog of failure. For two weeks I have failed to climb even one boulder. It's a difficult pill to swallow. Sure, I have been close on several difficult boulders and I have had some trouble with forearm pain, but embracing this failure and remaining confident in the face of it is one of the most difficult things I have ever had to do. I'm confident though that things will come together in the end.

-Brion

Chaos

2010-05-29T13:48:00.004-04:00

Jimmy and I hiked up to Chaos yesterday to check the condition of a few boulders. Turns out things are looking up. In lower Chaos the v10 Marble is climbable and the sit start, Centaur, would be as well with an hour or so of digging. With a little work the problems to the right, Handicapps and Gangbang, would be climbable as well. Jimmy and I spent about an hour and a half digging on The Automator and with a little more work it will be climbable along with Tommy's Arete.

We continued up to Middle Chaos to check out Top Notch (v13) and we arrived to find it completely buried in snow. Bummer...

Not to be discouraged we broke out the shovel and started digging toward the distant, but visible, start holds. Three hours later a spiral staircase fell into a 12 foot pit surrounding the boulder and we were booting up to try the thing. We didn't have a camera but we snapped a couple photos of the hole with my phone:

After nearly climbing the boulder about 20 times last year, Jimmy destroyed it second try from the bottom and after not being able to do the moves last year I fell three times from the last one. I was very happy to see the progression.

Afterwards, we headed up to the Green 45 to try Jade... But it was too hot so we focused some attention on Don't Get Too Greedy (v13). After falling several times from the final move Jimmy managed to eek out a send and I, for the second time in a day, punted from the last move about 5 times. It was a fun day, one of the best in a while. I can't wait to get back and finish the two of these off.

-Brion

CO Vid

2010-05-27T19:12:00.003-04:00

Here's the second installment from Colorado. In order of appearance it features Stinkbug (v10), Whispers of Wisdom (v10), Storm Shadow sit (v11) and Hi-Fi (v11). Enjoy...

Emerald

2010-05-26T14:03:00.006-04:00

I had forgotten how incredible Rock Mountain National Park really is. The snow, the scenery, the wildlife, and the climbing combine in a way only the Power Rangers and Planeteers have done on early morning television. Spending the past couple days climbing at Emerald Lake have jogged my memory though and we have been having quite a fun time up in the mountains. Yesterday for example I witnessed an EPIC BATTLE between two climbers, Nathan Drolet and John Gass, and the compression problem Storm Shadow (v10). For hours both climbers fought to defeat the boulder but unfortunately their advances were repelled. Here are some photos:

As for me, I climbed the Storm Shadow sit start (v11) which adds two hard moves into the v10. Video to come.

-Brion

Clear Creek Canyon

2010-05-19T15:41:00.003-04:00

Went to Clear Creek yesterday afternoon to try Echale (v13/14). It was stupid hot and the thing felt hard. Instead we focused on climbing some classics: North Shore (v9) and Animal (v9). I was able to climb both on my first attempt. Here is a cool photo I took of Nate on Animal:

It's really warming up here, hopefully alpine areas will be climbable soon...

-Brion

Black Ice

2010-05-18T13:31:00.004-04:00

It was hot yesterday afternoon as Nate, Jimmy and I made the hike to Black Ice (v10). Our directions were poor as well and we spent the majority of the 50 minute hike wondering if we were even headed in the right direction. I thought it might be helpful therefore to post more specific directions.

From the intersection of Broadway St. and Table Mesa Dr.:
1. Continue up Table Mesa Dr.
2. Turn L on Lehigh St.
3. Turn R on Cragmoor Rd.
4. Park in the Cul-de-sac at the top Cragmoor Rd.
5. Directly out of the car the trail forks
6. From first fork go R
7. The tail forks several more times
8. In order of appearance turn R, R, Farthest R, L, L, R
9. The boulder is an obvious roof to the left of the trail just right of a bolted red arete.

Anyway, we eventually found the boulder. A nice stream was running over the landing and we spent another thirty minutes or so piling rocks and branches across it. I put on my shoes and for the second time began the painful process of warming up on a v10 (maybe this is why my pulley is bothering me). 4 tries later, and still not warm, I was on top. I've heard a lot about this boulder in the past and I now I agree, Black Ice is one of the best boulders of the grade in Colorado. Jimmy also quickly dispatched and Nate came desperately close. Another fun day. Here's a shot:

-Brion

Recent Activity

2010-05-16T21:47:00.005-04:00

I've played about 20 hours of Xbox this past week. All I have to say is that Call of Duty Modern Warfare 2 is the bomb!

Spring rains have kept us cooped up in the house playing video games but between showers we have continued our exploration of Colorado's front range bouldering.

A couple days ago we visited Newlin Creek for the first time. Unfortunately the area was shrouded in thick clouds spiting rain/snow/mist. After the two hour drive from Denver though we were determined to see a boulder at the very least. Newlin is a fairly secluded area with boulders nestled between tall trees and steep canyon walls. The warm up was unusually difficult and I found myself missing comfortable LRC jugs. Eventually I found myself warm and at the top of a cool arete climb called The Nickness (v10), a must do for any Newlin goer with the gumption. Around the boulder is William Shatner which climbs a series of sidepulls to a highball topout. It took a minute but I got the boulder done and so did Jimmy. Mission accomplished! We have video but have been having some trouble getting it onto a computer for editing. Hopefully we'll have it all sorted out soon.

We also got up to Boulder Canyon to try Free Range (v13) the sit start to Cage Free. After a few tries I was convinced it would go but the sun, which hadn't made an appearance in days, was blasting the boulder. It wasn't long before the holds were baked and my skin was hurting. If we get some better temps I'll be back to finish this one off. We also tried Authentic Battle Damage (v12) an ultra compression roof line. I don't think I've ever tried a boulder more outside my style and I was shut down. Jimmy did it though in trademark random style.

Tomorrow we are going to be heading out to try the classic Black Ice (v10). Stay tuned.

-Voges

Joe's Video

2010-05-13T01:20:00.000-04:00

Poudre

2010-05-10T13:24:00.003-04:00

It's been nonstop since we rolled in. I've only had one day of rest in the last seven. But stuff has been going down left and right. Jimmy and I both had great days at Poudre Canyon Saturday repeating nearly every difficult boulder at the 420s. After a quick warm up we quickly dispatched the surprisingly difficult Canopener (v11). It was fun and powerful despite the slightly damp holds. Circadian Rhythm (v13) on the backside was feeling too wet to try so we moved on over to the Sharma Lunge (v9) a cool, very height dependent one move boulder which Jimmy and I both flashed. To left of Sharma Lunge is Chris Schulte's line What's Left of the Bottom of My Heart (v12). The boulder revolves around a difficult first move and then more compression leading to a jug at the lip. After a quick beta session and some real try hard Jimmy and I both sent the boulder. We chilled for a bit waiting for Circadian to dry up a bit and in the mean time Nate sent a cool boulder called Tilt (v9). Then amazingly, Jimmy and I both made quick ascents of Circadian. I had to figure out some different beta due to my height and the length of my appendages but I made it work in the end. One of the best days of my life! Check the vid:

That's all for now.

-Voges

Joe's

2010-05-07T17:13:00.005-04:00

Just got back from Joe's last night. We only spent three days in Utah but I managed to put together a pretty good list of boulders:

1. Two Finger Variation (v9)
2. Resident Evil (v10) FLASH
3. Ghost King (v10)
4. The Angler (v1)
5. Big Joe left (v11)
6. Worm Turns (v10)
7. They Call Him Michael (v8)
8. Wills of Fire (v6)
9. Playmate of the Year (v9)
10. Battletoads (v10)
11. Man From the Past (v11)

Unfortunately we couldn't make it across the river to try the Masterpiece (v13) but this one is high on my lifetime list and I'll be returning for it. Jimmy and I also tried Black Lung (v13) with no success. Here are a couple photos and there should be a little footage soon as well.

Big Joe left

Playmate of the Year

Worm Turns

-voges

Joe's Valley

2010-05-02T01:08:00.002-04:00

I am very psyched! Jimmy, Nate, and I are leaving tomorrow for Joe's Valley. Joe's has been at the top of my list of places to visit for a while. Things that have me psyched are Black Lung, The Masterpiece, and pretty much every other boulder seeing as I've never touched any of them. After 7 weeks climbing inside, I can't wait to climb on real rock again!

The quick excursion to Joe's precedes a three month stint in Colorado. I will be climbing everything in sight and obviously, there will be much more to come.

-b

WOW

2010-04-18T11:39:00.003-04:00

So I haven't been posting very much. I've got so much going on with school and training that I don't have time for much else. But it will be over soon. I finish up school next week and then it will be on to Colorado. So psyched and feeling strong!

I promise I'll post something substantial soon,

Brion

Training Log #1

2010-03-29T14:57:00.005-04:00

Thursday, March 25

Day 1. Can't wait to get the training ball rolling. It's been a while since I've had the time and motivation to focus on specific training and I definitely feel like I can use the conditioning. In the past I have found that the first week is the most difficult - training requires that schedules be rearranged, eating and sleeping habits overhauled and a general shift in attitue toward pain. But I'm prepared and today I felt ok. I did an early ab workout. I'll be sore tomorrow. I also did some campusing today for the first time in about 9 months. Surprisingly, I feel that I've gained a lot of strength over that time and it's quite motivating to feel that progression. The campus sesh was quick, leaving me some time to climb around. My new program incorporates regular bouldering and power endurance into a session followed by systems and then a warm down. The first day left me feeling wrecked but content. Ready for more tomorrow!

Friday, March 26

Feeling tired from yesterday and not happy to wake at 6:45 for classes. Jo Beth is in town as well which is taking away my motivation. I got a new fingerboard yesterday - the Moon one - and I'm psyched to try it out. I thought that I would get in a session on it before heading to the gym and I decided to give this workout a try. I found the prescribed 1 arm deadhangs and pull-ups particularly challenging (especially as the door frame constricts my space). I ended up using a piece of webbing to take some weight. In general, I have found that fingerboards are good tools to measure progress because they measure such small intervals. For example, if you can hold a position for 5 seconds in March and 7 seconds by April, progress is obvious and rewarding. I felt tired to the point of being sleepy heading into the afternoon climbing session but I forced it anyway. I climbed some moderates and began the systems program in my Friday workout. It went surprisingly well and I finished up with some endurance. A good day all in all but I am very tired and expect motivation to be low tomorrow.

Saturday, March 27

My alarm went off an hour and a half before I was supposed to be at work. The idea was that I could get in a quick session on the fingerboard and a good ab workout beforehand. I laid in bed a little too long though and my fingerboard workout was shortened as a result. It's probably a good thing anyway because my tendons and skin are not cooperating. I'm going to call it.

Sunday, March 28

Rest! Finally! The good thing is I feel like I've really earned it. More training tomorrow.

Monday, March 29

Went to the gym after all my morning classes to get in a campus workout. It felt a little more difficult today but I was working alone this time and motivation was slightly less. Afterwards I ran home to grab some food and then headed back to the gym to meet Hugh Huffaker for an evening bouldering session. It went ok but my skin started hurting before I could do the volume of climbing I wanted. I don't think that 2 hours of rest between sessions is a good idea. Hope it feels better tomorrow.

Tuesday, March 30

I got a good night sleep last night and I woke up feeling good with the exception of my skin. The nonstop training has left my skin feeling burned and stiff. I forced a fingerboard workout despite the pain. I thought I might have to break out the ibuprofen for my scheduled evening workout. It is the shoe demoing tonight at Urban Rocks in Chattanooga. I went down to help out and got in a small bouldering session as well. Unfortunately it was smaller than I had hoped for - only about an hour and a half - but my skin is worked and my fingernails even hurt. I wish my skin would shape up so I could accomplish my training goals. Tomorrow is rest and I really can't wait.

Wednesday, March 31

I can't believe it's the last day of March already. Very tired and a little sore today - happy to have some rest.

More Bishop Pictures

2010-03-29T11:06:00.024-04:00

So there hasn't been much going on in Chattanooga lately in terms of climbing outdoors. I've been busy in the gym though, trying to get a little stronger before I leave for Colorado in May. In case you're interested in training I've decided to keep a training log for the next month and I will be posting it occasionally.

For your viewing pleasure, here are some more pictures from Bishop...

Me on Spectre
photo: Jo Beth Richards

Me on Spectre 2
photo: Jo Beth Richards

Me on Spectre 3
photo: Jo Beth Richards

Jimmy on Spectre
photo: Jo Beth Richards

Me on the Swarm 1
photo: Jo Beth Richards

Me on the Swarm 2
photo: Jo Beth Richards

Jimmy on the Swarm
photo: Jo Beth Richards

Me and Jo Beth from Spectre

Jacob Fellers on Acid Wash

That's all.

-Brion

Pictures

2010-03-23T11:15:00.008-04:00

Camping at the Pit

Me and Jo Beth
Photo: Jimmy Webb

Isabelle on Fall Guy

The Happy Boulders

Xavier's Roof
Photo: Jo Beth Richards

Jo Beth on the Jigsaw Wall

Jimmy's Tips after trying the Swarm

Bishop Slideshow

2010-03-18T14:44:00.003-04:00

Ok, so we didn't get a lot of video footage on the trip because the camera died and we couldn't charge it. But thanks to Jo Beth we did get a lot of picture footage. Rather than just posting the best of them, I chose to make a slideshow. In order of appearance it includes footage of me climbing High Plains Drifter (v7), The Mandala (v11), The Buttermilker (v13), Checkerboard (v8) and Xavier's Roof (v11) and Jimmy climbing the Buttermilker as well.

The rest of my Bishop pics will be up as soon as I get around to editing them.

-Brion

Bishop Video

2010-03-17T16:43:00.002-04:00

Jimmy already put together a video of me climbing Stained Glass (v10), Haroun and the Sea of Stories (v11), and A Scanner Darkly (v12). Check it out! Also, pics from the trip will be up shortly. I'm off the the gym.

The List

2010-03-11T20:02:00.004-05:00

I've spent the last couple days chipping away at my Bishop ticklist. It's now down to 2 problems: Spectre (v13) and Xavier's Roof (v11). That's not to say I've climbed all the problems on it, but at least I've tried.

Here's my original list:

1. The Mandala
2. The Buttermilker
3. The Swarm
4. Spectre
5. Stained Glass
6. Checkerboard
7. Xavier's Roof
8. Haroun and the Sea of Stories

Of the original eight, six problems remained on my list after our first two climbing days:

1. The Swarm
2. Spectre
3. Stained Glass
4. Checkerboard
5. Xavier's Roof
6. Haroun and the Sea of Stories

Here's how everthing has gone down since then:

Tuesday:

Stained Glass - after a quick warm up we ran up the hill to try this crimpy masterpiece. After a little bit of effort I managed to send from the obvious jug start.

Haroun and the Sea of Stories - Something about this place inspires me to give good 1st burns. Maybe it's the razor edges? Anyway, thanks to the beta spray from Jimmy I managed to pull a flash out of the bag.

Checkerboard - another flash. This is one of the most beautiful boulders ever!

My list after Tuesday:

1. The Swarm
2. Spectre
3. Xavier's Roof

Wednesday:

The Swarm - Basically hiked up and got shut down! There are some small edges on this baby - probably the smallest I've ever tried to pull on. Maybe next year?

But the day wasn't a total waste. Jimmy and I both managed to climb A Scanner Darkly (v12) and A Form Destroyer (v12). I also climbed a really awesome v9 called Queen Sweet Nectar.

That's basically it. We're heading out tomorrow to try Spectre and Ronnie Jenkins is driving in tomorrow night.

Very excited!

-Brion

The Mandala

2010-03-08T14:49:00.005-05:00

So it's been two days since the Chatty crew rolled into Bishop, CA and we have been making the most of Spring Break '10. I came here with a list of 8 problems:

1. The Mandala
2. The Buttermilker
3. The Swarm
4. Spectre
5. Stained Glass
6. Checkerboard
7. Xavier's Roof
8. Haroun and the Sea of Stories

and after two climbing days I have been able to tick the Buttermilker (v13) and flash the Mandala. I have little to say about the Buttermilker - it's a hard powerful boulder and I was extremely happy to climb it. Instead I would like to focus attention on the Mandala.

Recently this boulder has been getting a lot of attention. The start in particular has been drawing a lot of controversy. Should the boulder start on the two edges and move into the undercling left hand as the first ascentionist (Sharma) started? Or should it start left hand on the high edge and right hand already in the undercling? In this case though I think the answer (starting left hand on the high edge and right in the undercling) is obvious for several reasons:

1. The undercling is lower on the wall than one of the original start holds - it seems self explanatory. Simply starting with the right hand lower on the wall doesn't seem to pose any major problems. It does cut out 1 move, however, and I suppose this is what people have problems with. Would it be legitimate then to start right hand in the undercling, left on the lower edge, pull on and move left to the high edge before continuing the climb?

2. The boulder should be climbed in the easiest most direct manner possible - there is no questioning the beauty or purity of the Mandala; it is one of the most recognizable boulders in North America. To question something as trivial as beta on this amazing bloc seems to contrive the boulder. In my opinion this is an affront to the pure nature of the boulder and of climbing itself.

3. The undercling is such an obvious feature - it's not always the case that the first ascentionist climbs a boulder in the easiest, most obvious way possible. Boulders often experience a period of grade deflation after the first ascent (think Graham boulder in RMNP). This is in no way a bad thing. It simply shows that refined beta and its exposure (on the internet and over time) makes climbs easier than first perceived.

I would also like to discuss the grade of the boulder. The Mandala has been in the v12 range for a number of years but I don't think it belongs. The Mandala is a perfect example of a beautiful boulder that receives a lightly inflated grade as a result of its beauty. The Shield (v12) at Little Rock City is another example. Taking into account simply the difficulty of the movement, I think the Mandala (as well as the Shield) deserves a grade more in line with v11.

That being said, this boulder is an amazing testpiece and one of the most beautiful boulders I've ever climbed. I am psyched to climb on some of the other amazing boulders in Bishop. Tommorrow Jimmy and I are going out to try the Swarm. Wish us luck!

-Brion

5.10 Line King

2010-03-02T23:17:00.006-05:00

In terms of fashion, wearability, and versatility 5.10 is still leading the way. Check out the new 5.10 Line Kings available now. These shoes are sick!

There are few shoes that make the transition from the street to the trail so brilliantly. Just thought I would share.

-Brion

Moss Rock

2010-02-28T21:35:00.005-05:00

Jimmy, Kasia, Jo Beth I drove to Birmingham, AL yesterday to compete in the annual Moss Rock competition. Really we were just looking for a good time and some new boulders. We found both.

After a warm up on some really cool easy highballs, I hopped right on the hardest boulder in the field - Reignition sit (v10). The line follows a series of cool slopers and edges out a steep roof to a fun topout (4 stars). It went pretty quick and Jimmy and I moved on to flash roof's other line, the Godfather (v10). Then we got psyched on a project starting on Reignition and climbing through a huge move and a couple toe hooks. Jimmy sent for the first and I followed up quickly. The name: Out of Touch (v10). Other highlights included the classic highball Serenity Now (v7) and the powerful Beef It direct (v9).

It was really a fun time - met some new people, climbed some new boulders, and made a little money. Thanks to the locals for beta and for making this comp a great time. Also, thanks to Adam Henry for organizing the whole thing!

Later,

Brion

Bama

2010-02-26T17:30:00.002-05:00

Jimmy and I drove down to Alabama because I wanted to finish off the super sloppy Skeletor (v10). We had also heard rumors of a hard project at Steele, AL and were psyched to go check it out.

After a little work I sent Skeletor and we were off to check out the proj. Turns out the thing is impossible. It start on low on a left-facing edge with zero feet climbs up and left on a very bad flexing edge to a sloppy undercling. Climbing from the undercling is possible though, and my be in the v9 range. Anyway, we made the most of the trip and climbed a cool, very frightening v7 called Reconciliation. We also added a new line to the left of Reconciliation traversing low on some edges and up to the arete. This place really does have some potential for bouldering though obviously routes are the main attraction. Here's the vid:

Also, the Shades Crest comp is tomorrow, come on out. I'll be there climbing and demoing 5.10 shoes.

Later,

Brion

Cold and Damp

2010-02-24T10:42:00.007-05:00

It was supposed to be sunny yesterday. It wasn't. It was supposed to snow today. It hasn't. Moral of the story - February weather here has been unpredictable. As a result, many of our climbing days have been less than ideal.

Yesterday was just one of those cold, cloudy, damp days that kill motivation, wreck skin, and keep you shivering. Jimmy and I were at LRC hoping to finally climb the Tall Tee project. After a few goes though, it was obviously not happening. Conditions for this thing have to be perfect, skin has to be perfect and climbing needs to be flawless. Yesterday was just not the day. I'm excited though. This boulder is an entirely new level for us and, I think, a new level for bouldering in the Southeast. In terms of single difficult moves, this one may be equal to the crux move on Jade. Of course the climbing after this move isn't as difficult as Jade's v11 exit but it's interesting to think about.

Anyway, after our failed attempts at Tall Tee we got psyched to try another 1 move project (we think) just behind Diesel Power. The problem starts on two small edges with a smearish foot out right. Then a hard deadpoint to a slot leads to easier climbing. I ended up sending for the 1st and I decided to name it Disparate Impact (v10). Here's a photo of Jimmy trying it:

Afterwards we got psyched and decided to go looking for a problem called Immortal Technique (v9). We found it eventually and Jimmy and I sent quickly. Here's a quick video Jimmy put together of me climbing it:

I also took some photos of Nathan Drolet climbing on it. Here is my favorite:

I guess that's all for now,

Brion

The Bosnian

2010-02-21T22:11:00.003-05:00

So today I went out with the fellas to try the Bosnian (v10). I was psyched to make quick work of it and Jimmy barely got the send on camera. Here's the footy:

Posting

2010-02-17T13:49:00.006-05:00

I haven't been posting lately because there hasn't been much going on. Rain and snow have severely limited the amount of time spent outdoors the past few weeks and so I've been training at home and indoors at TBA with the usual suspects. To catch you up:

1. The video Jimmy, Brad and I shot a few weeks ago with Brant Hawkins is up on Deadpoint. Check it out here.

2. I had a rough time at ABS Nationals last weekend and I would rather not dwell on the details. Suffice it to say I was quite disappointed in my performance. At least the 10 hour drive to Virgina was not a complete waste; we were able to sample the food, see some sights, and hang out with friends.

3. Today we took advantage of a rare sunny day and drove up to Dayton. I was able to climb Matt Bosley's Power Patches low (v11) for its 3rd ascent and Jimmy's Oreo (v9) for a 2nd. Jimmy climbed a new one he named Hippie Funeral (v10) plus one of mine, HSR extension (v8). Good day!

4. March is just around the corner. That means the season here in the Southeast is winding down. It also means time for Spring Break! We will be leaving March 5th for Bishop. I feel strong right now and my expectations for the trip are high, but I'm also looking forward to visiting a new area and climbing on new boulders.

5. The Shadescrest Showdown is coming up this Saturday February 27th. Check out the comp details here.

6. Seen the video of Daniel Woods talking about the Sportiva Solutions? Well, he forgot to mention that the Team 5.10's do everything the Solutions do, only better. Plus they're blue.

That's all,

Brion

Mega Man

2010-01-31T20:24:00.004-05:00

Here is the footage of me climbing Mega Man (v11).

This Week

2010-01-29T09:57:00.010-05:00

A lot has been going on lately. Last week I did an interview for Deadpoint Magazine. Check it out here.

Also, earlier this week Jimmy, Brad Weaver and I filmed a short video with Brant Hawkins of Projekt Media. The film will feature me climbing The Law (v11), Jimmy climbing Western Gold (v11), and Brad on Lord of the Dance (v11). A big thanks to Brant for putting up with our antics, for his excellent camera skills, and for making us look cooler than we really are.

Jimmy, Brad and I had a good day yesterday climbing on some of Chattanooga's finest river boulders. Brad and I both climbed a line called Damn Yankees (v9).

Afterwards, we were all psyched to go try a project. I'll just say it's not a project anymore! The crew took it down with three sends and decided on the name: Southern Slang (southern v11). The line is a crimpy roof with a difficult last move from a sloping crimper to a sloper/edge on the lip. Here is an old picture of me trying it:

After countless failed attempts, we decided to skip the bad lip hold and dyno to the jug about 8 inches higher. It worked and Brad sent for the FA. Nice work hommes! You have to really want this one as the dyno tends to cause a little pain. My arm afterwards was red and pretty swollen:

Then Jimmy decided to jump from boulder to boulder over the rushing water:

He barely made it back...

Also, we spent last Monday climbing rocks in Alabama the beautiful. I managed the second ascent of Jimmy's Mega Man (v11) and also a flash of Hustle and Flow (v10). Video should be up soon!

Yesterday I was extremely psyched to find a pair of 5.10 Yosemite Jeans at my door. If you are looking for a pair of comfortable jeans to climb in these are for you. Unlike most other jeans, they have some stretch and a wide enough leg to allow a good range of motion. I'm psyched to put them through some climbing days to see how they hold up.

That's all for now,

Brion

So Ill Vid

2010-01-23T14:14:00.001-05:00

Thanks to Jimmy here's a video from last weekend in Illinois. Enjoy:

Big Gulp

2010-01-20T10:31:00.004-05:00

A couple days ago I got word, via Andy Salo on facebook, that Matt Bosley climbed a new problem on the Seven Eleven roof. Instead of exiting left after the opening crux, Big Gulp (v11) climbs through a couple massive moves directly to the lip. Jimmy and I were naturally syked to go check it out and second and third ascents were the result. Here's the vid:

-Brion

So Ill

2010-01-19T17:18:00.006-05:00

We trucked North this weekend in honor of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. and found ourselves at the Holy Boulders in Southern Illinois. Turns out it was wet. We had a pretty epic day Saturday. It was a lot of drying boulders, slipping, and getting pissed.

It was nice though to spend time enjoying simple movement on easier climbs, to enjoy climbing for climbing's sake rather than for difficulty. I took some pictures as well but there is only 1 worth posting. Here's Nate Drolet climbing a beautiful v5 face (I don't know the name):

-Brion

Matchmaker Footage

2010-01-12T00:40:00.005-05:00

Ok, so here is the vid of me climbing Matchmaker (v11). It also features Kasia climbing Odd Job (v8) with crazy beta and Ben climbing Orca (hard v3).

Too Cold?

2010-01-06T08:56:00.008-05:00

So the crew was at Horse Pens Tuesday in the 20 degree weather. I guess we thought it would be a little warmer 100 miles south... It wasn't really, and the HP slopers felt like straight glass. I had my sights set on Skeletor (v10) though, and after a warm up I was determined to give some good efforts. After some really slippery times, I unlocked the key beta - sweaty hands. Still, halfway through the boulder my hands would be icy again and I found myself hanging on horrible slopers breathing on my tips to heat them up. No dice. This boulder is f-ing hard/I need good conditions/damn slopers! I moved on.

Last time at the Pens I had gotten close on Jimmy's Matchmaker (v11) and I was syked to go polish it off. After a beta tweak/total overhaul I climbed it for the second ascent. Way syked! Video should be up soon.

Oh, and Wednesday I went up to try Seven Eleven (v10). I was successful but used slightly different beta than Jimmy and Nate. Instead of the crazy campus, I did a right heel hook, a terrible left toe scum, and moved right hand to the first hold. Crazy stuff and probably the only other beta possible on the climb. I've got no footage or pics but here is the video of Nate Draughn sending:

Also, here's a pic of Nate nearly sending Breadloaf Factory low last week:

That's it for now,

Brion

Roll Tide

2010-01-04T00:47:00.009-05:00

Happy 2010!

Ok, so I haven't been too good with updating lately, just been climbing and hanging out. But I'm gettin' with the program. Since last time I have been all over Alabama trying to tick off sloper problems. It's been going pretty well. Saturday, I managed the second ascents of the low to Breadloaf Factory (v10) and The Boss (v11). Both climbs have horrible slopey cruxes. Check the vid:

The day before Jimmy and I did a new climb called Innovation which is somewhere in the 9-10 range. It's only 5 moves and the crux involves a move from an undercling out left to a sidepull and holding the barndoor. In the past few days I've also managed to climb Grand Papa (v9), Dog Laudnam (v10), Master Beta (v9), Unlocked (v9) and Landslide (v9). Here's the footage of me climbing Landslide and a couple others along with footage of John Gass climbing a bunch of classics:

Also, here is more footage from our trip to Hueco. Sorry I didn't manage to get send footage of Full Throttle but here's a good attempt at least.

On a completely different subject, has anyone else noticed that the V-scale is being replaced by the Font scale? It's not very consequential, but it's worth noticing.

My skin has been burning today but I'm hoping it cools down by tomorrow so I can get out. Until then.

-Brion

LRC Today, HP40 Tomorrow

2009-12-27T00:13:00.006-05:00

That's right folks, been at LRC today enjoying the perfect winter temps. I quickly dispatched Reflections (v10), a boulder I would not exactly suggest, and moved on to the projects. Tall Tee in particular had me psyched and Jimmy and I both had our best goes yet - hit the hold, stick, foot cut, hold for an instant, fail. Neither of us managed it though and after 4 or 5 days of effort on the single move without success I would say that this one might be the hardest in the South. I think it will go though - today I saw the light!

We moved on to a cool dyno project which king of dynos climbed quickly and which I would love to go back and try. It has a scary landing on a boulder which may have discouraged others but it wasn't half bad. In the end we decided to call it Watch Your Back. As for the grade, somewheres in the v11 range seems good. Nice work Jimmy!

Vid:

Yeah, so LRC today and tomorrow headin' to the Pens. Mostly syked on Genetic, Landslide, and Skeletor. I'll let ya know how it goes.

-Brion

Trip Footage

2009-12-26T17:55:00.004-05:00

Here are a couple videos of our recent trip to AR and TX - thanks jimmy.

- Brion

Home for the Holidays

2009-12-23T21:23:00.012-05:00

I'm back in Chattanooga for a few days spending Christmas with family. I'm not sure what my plans are afterwards but I think a return trip to Arkansas may be in order. Top of my list there are Lost in the Hood, Wood Grain Grippin', Loved by Few Hated by Many, and the Zone.

As for the end of my Hueco trip, I finished Full Throttle. Being mostly pinches and compression I would not consider this problem in my style and completing it, I feel I've reached a new level. This problem also highlighted a slight shift in my climbing style from fingery crimp problems to power and compression. Don't get me wrong, I still love a good crimp line but I feel that I'm a more well-rounded climber. This is one reason I love returning to Hueco every season - it allows me to measure progress and changes in my climbing which I may not have noticed otherwise. I can't wait to get back to try Esperanza (v14), which I made some good links on, and Slashface (v13).

That being said, here are a few photos from the past week. Still to come is footage of Diabolique, El Techo, One Inch Pinch and a bunch of others.

Getting into the business on Diabolique

Diabolique

Jimmy on the last move of Diabolique

John climbing See Spot Run

-Brion

Trip Report

2009-12-20T15:24:00.004-05:00

So I have been on the road for the past couple weeks. First it was Arkansas and now Hueco. I'll be heading home in a few days and hopefully will be able to get up some media and go in to more detail about the trip. For now I just wanted to throw up a quick update.

Arkansas was cold as balls - the first day was even too cold to climb. Afterwards though it warmed up and I was able to do a few things on my list including Flash Gordon (v9), One Inch Pinch (v12), Moondie (v9), Glass Bowl (v10), and Bloody Knuckles (v11). Brad Weaver unlocked bomber knee bar beta on Anti-Hero which makes the boulder easier despite the recently broken hold and then it started raining. We left a day early.

Hueco has been nice though - the land of never ending sunshine. I have been happy with my climbing here. Jimmy and I were able to quickly dispatch El Techo (v11) on our first day in the park and by day two I was able to climb Diabolique (v13). I have spent a couple days trying Full Throttle (v13) and yesterday fell from the last move 5 times. I'm heading back in the morning to try and finish it. Can't wait!

I guess that's all for now,

Brion

Boone Vid

2009-11-30T13:58:00.003-05:00

Here is the video of me climbing On Any Sunday in Boone a week or so ago:

I spent this weekend in Miami - more like driving to Miami - and my skin is finally healed from a solid week of climbing outdoors. J Gass and I spent Wednesday climbing on some cool local problems and he was able to quickly dispatch a couple of classics. I repeated a few things and found this cool sit start to an existing v7. After working out some beta I'm very psyched to return with fresh skin. New problem!

John and I also spent a little time at LRC on Thursday before gorging on Thanksgiving feasts. I managed to repeat King James second go but then fell apart completely. It was quite a fun week though and it was good having johnny around to provide some new syke! Now it's raining again and Triple Crown is coming up. Time to hit the gym! Again....

Later,

Brion

Thougts

2009-11-24T00:30:00.006-05:00

What the hell is confidence anyway? Seemingly, it is only a perception of reality. Whether this perception is correct or incorrect, whether confidence is real or imaginary, outcomes often remain unchanged. The power of confidence is in this deception, and it is not therefore merely a perception of reality, but a reality itself. It is this obstacle which I find myself pitted against time and time again. Boulders become hurtles on the road to confidence and self-assurance.

The Southeast, I have found, is one of the most difficult places to build confidence in the U.S. Rain, heat, humidity, and hard low-grade boulder problems combined with a very short list of high-grade ones makes this place a confidence destroyer. Perhaps this is one reason the Southeast receives so little recognition from professional athletes and climbing publications. Instead, areas in Colorado housing easier higher grade boulders are recognized as the best climbing areas in the country.

On a completely unrelated subject, I spent Saturday in Boone with Nate, Brian, Rami and Jo Beth. After warming up at Lost Cove I tried Kratos (v12) a little - no dice. It's quite difficult and I must say, no fun at all. The holds are sharp, the moves are awkward, the line is uninspiring. We quickly moved on to a cool gently overhanging face climb called On Any Sunday (v10). I was able to send in a few tries and decided I might as well try the sit start. After quite a few greasy efforts, I was able to cool my skin and link it together. 2nd ascent maybe? Anyway, Nate came desperately close and returned to finish it the next day.

We also spent some time trying Don Johnson (v11) but I still couldn't manage the sloper dyno move. This thing is hard! Walking up on it it looks like v6 or something, but trying it is totally different. It starts low in a verticle crack, climb 3 feet to the top of the crack and the problem gets hard. A high left foot and a right hand lock-off allow you grab a small side-pull crimp. Then smear the right in the crack and jump to a bad sloper at the lip. From there the problem is like a really fun v5. Anyway, I'm gonna climb this one someday. It was getting dark at this point and with rain in the forecast for Sunday we decided to head for home.

I spent Monday climbing as well. It was mostly wet but I tried Grand Papa (v9) and failed, some v9 face and failed, Master Beta (v9) and failed. I got close on everything but my skin and the grimy rock were not getting along and at the end of the day I managed to punch 3 holes in 3 different tips. I always bleed!

Then Yesterday Jimmy, John, Brad and I decided to head out to LRC. I taped up 7 of 8 tips warmed up and was ready to go. I got super close to repeating Dragon Slayer - just bobbled to hold a couple times. Then Jimmy, Brad, and I were all able to climb Biggie Shortie but not Electric Boogaloo. Then, with literally no skin and on wet holds I got fairly close to repeating the Law.

Good times in Tennessee despite the crappy humidity.

More later,

Brion

Between the Trees

2009-11-18T21:49:00.005-05:00

So I just got finished watching Between the Trees and I have to say that I am syked! The climbing, the music, the filming, the personality in that video was unlike anything I've seen. Maybe that's because it was a British film, I don't know. If you haven't seen it, Between the Trees now comes highly recommended by me.

I was in Fontainbleu about 4 years ago (I was 17) on a trip with my high school. Of the 10 day trip we traveled 2, climbed 6, and spent 2 in Paris. I spent two days trying to climb Eclipse, the 7c finish to Total Eclipse, a problem featured in Dosage 2 (I think), but failed. Highlights from that trip include flashing Le Toit du Cul de Chien (footage on Modump here) and French pastries.

I can't wait to get back now that I'm a little older, a little wiser, and a little stronger to climb some of the classics in this video (Karma!).

Stuff

2009-11-17T15:03:00.004-05:00

So the weather in Chattanooga is still not quite there. We have had a few nice days but rain and warm weather have been the norm. Mostly I have just been training for my upcoming trips to Arkansas and Hueco. I also seem to have developed a small tweak in my left ring finger. I'm resting it now and if nothing goes horribly wrong it should be o.k. by the time we leave.

Here is a video Jimmy shot last week. Enjoy.

-Brion

Horse Pens

2009-11-09T11:58:00.006-05:00

For me, the dreaded second leg of the triple crown, Horse Pens is an area known for downgrades. Years ago, I climbed my first v5 there, a problem called Bum Boy, now, with a broken start hold and a polish suitable for a Ferrari, it receives the measly grade of v2/3. On top of that the place is chock full of slopers... not my strong suit.
All this was going through my head Friday afternoon as Jo Beth and I made the 2 hour drive from Chattanooga.

After two days rest I was feeling anxious and energetic and for the first time in weeks my skin felt solid - almost like it could take an entire day of abuse. But it was warm. Even after sun set there was no need for more than a light jacket. I set about planning the coming day, wondering which problems would be easiest on a 70+ degree day. I circled them in the back of the guide book and went to bed.

The sun rises early in Alabama and I was up with it. I ate a small breakfast, drank a red bull and I was ready to go. Jimmy and I started at No Tranquility (v9). My troubles started here. The sun was already blasting the sloping edges and after quite a few tries I gave up. The next problem on my list was God Module (v11) and after only a few tries I managed it quite easily. I'd climbed this problem once before, 3 years ago and in the cold. It felt good to repeat it, it showed me just how far I've come. Anyway, after trying Slider sit (v10) a few times and failing I thought it might be easier to climb the longer version, Super Slider (v10). After falling on the last move of slider twice I managed this one as well. But 2 problems in I was already tired. Even so I was still able to climb Balrog (v10) and Hot and Tot (v10) before loosing it completely.

After failing on a Cadillac Thrills (v9), Five-0 (v9), and Pegmodo (v9), the rest of my day was spent ticking v8s, 6 of them to be exact. And the shorter the better. They included Odd Job, Megatron, American Pie, Thugs and Bitches, Hugs and Kisses, and Waterloo.

I was dead and so happy to be finished. After one of the most difficult and mentally grueling days of my climbing career I came out in 4th place behind Jimmy, Jeremy, and Carlo. I guess that means I'm going into Little Rock City in second place overall. And out of the three comps, home field advantage applies most here.

Holla,

Brion

Odyssey

2009-11-05T08:02:00.007-05:00

I went back to LRC yesterday and finished off Odyssey. I'm quite happy about it as I never thought I would see the top of this boulder. It is my most difficult climb at this angle and a power slab if there ever was one. Here are some pictures Tim Hink took of me on it:

Here are some more pics of me messing around on some dynos:

Later,

Brion

My Topoutless Day

2009-11-02T12:10:00.002-05:00

I made it out to LRC yesterday With Jimmy and Nate. Jimmy and I were psyched to try the Tall Tee project some more but neither of us managed to stick the crux move. Oh and I split two tips on the micro edges. So began my topoutless day. Afterwards we dumped our stuff below the v9 slab Odyssey.

I figured out beta pretty quick - grab the only hold on the problem, a left hand sidepull pocket, use some of the worst smears ever and to gain a small left hand sidepull. Pull left around the bulging arete and paste a left foot on another terrible smear, turn a left thumb down in the pocket, stand on the smear, move up left hand to a non-existent sloper and jack a right foot into the pocket. For a slab, this one is super physical and it wore me down quick. Oh and split another tip.

Nate meanwhile crushed Tennessee Thong aka Tiny Tee and Jimmy climbed Jut left - another one I didn't see the top of. It was not a productive day but I felt strong and I feel that I have made gains through my training. The weather this week looks good and I can't wait to get out again on Tuesday to finish Odyssey and take some photos before the leaves fall.

-Brion

LRC Projects

2009-10-27T15:13:00.005-04:00

Jimmy and I have been trying some projects lately; haven't done any, but have tried many. The coolest of them climbs right of the v7 Tennessee Thong. From that problem's start you move left hand to the first good edge and bump right hand out to a micro edge just under the first tier of the roof. Perching on your right foot, your left hand floats up to another micro edge just above the second tier. The next move is quite a large, difficult move to a sloping pinch on the right arete. From there it's probably v6 to the top. Check it out if you are in the area and psyched on some small holds!

There is also an amazing slab project across from the v2 crack Mouse Trap still awaiting an ascent. So far, I have put three days into this one and have made absolutely no progress. I'm not even sure if this one goes but it is one of the most beautiful and distinct lines at LRC.

If you know anything at all about LRC projects you are probably wondering about the Barn Door Project. Well it's still a project. I'm super psyched to start trying this one once the temps drop a little more.

Oh, and here is a vid jimmy put together of me climbing The Power of Amida (v10) yesterday. Thanks buddy.

Later,

Brion