Slashface vid

Merry Christmas!

I haven't been climbing for a week. My finger is still messed up but the swelling seems to have subsided and it hurts a little less. I've decided to return to training in an attempt to get fit and heal my finger before it gets warm again. My remaining goal for the year is to finish Wood Grain Grippin' and I figure February will be the month.

I also edited the small amount of useful footage I got in Hueco. This is my first official video and I know it's not perfect but I hope you enjoy it!

-Brion

Five Ten: Brand of the Brave

Check out this Five Ten ad! Thanks to Andrew Kornylak I'm in it at 0:22.



Merry Christmas everyone,

Brion

Hueco 3

So I got super close on Nagual the other day - I fell from the end twice. Then I tweaked my pinkie finger... It didn't hurt at all and at first I thought it was just my knuckle cracking. It wasn't until I tried to weight it again that I realized something was actually wrong. Now it feels swollen but doesn't look it, and I can't crimp at all - not a good thing in Hueco. I can grab open-hand holds and I still have full range of motion but I'm super bummed that I'm not going to be able to finish Nagual or anything else this trip.

Before I hurt myself though I managed to finish Slashface and I'm happy about that. I took some shots of Brad trying it. Here's one:


I was also able to climb The Flame (v11), The Egg (v8), and Loaded Direct (v11 or 12?). Now I'll be taking some time off and I'm happy to be going home for Christmas on Tuesday. Good food and fun await. I'm also gonna be working on editing footage from the trip.

Until next time,

Brion

Hueco 2

Went out yesterday to East Spur to try Nagual (v13). It was way harder than I expected but I was able to do all the moves and make a couple good links - I'll be back to finish this one as well. We also tried Coeur de Leon (v12/13) and thanks to Brian A. and some clutch beta it will definitely go. Brad was able to finish off Full Monty (v12) and I got some good shots. Here's one:

I'm feeling super close on everything but so far I've been unable to actually send anything. We're headed out to East tomorrow and hopefully I'll be able to finish Slashface.

See ya out there,

Brion

Hueco 1

Days 1 and 2 of Hueco 2010 are in the books. On day 1 Brad Weaver and I went up to try Bleeding Brothers (v12). The boulder revolves around these toe-hooks in a huge hueco. I don't know whether it's my height or if I'm just not strong enough, but I couldn't make it work. I was able to figure out some other crazy beta though and after a couple hours I was able to put it together. I captured the send on my new camera as well but you're gonna have to wait to see it. Brad was close but the boulder is super spread and he looked like he was strung out on a medieval torture device. We also tried Esperanza (v14) and I was able to do all the moves and make a couple good links - I'll be back.

Then yesterday we got out to East Mountain to try Slashface (v13). I got super close and I'm looking forward to getting back and finishing it off. Brad and Jimmy were both psyched on Full Throttle (v13) - a boulder I was lucky enough to climb on our last trip - and both were doing really well. Here's a picture I took of Jimmy on it:


We are heading out to the East Spur tomorrow to try Nagual (v13).

See ya out there,

-Brion

Chimney Rock State Park and Rumbling Bald Boulders

Some information has made it's way to me via Nate Draughn about access at Rumbling bald. Here is the official memo:

The North Carolina Department of Environment and Natural Resources recently released a draft of the Chimney Rock State Park Master Plan for public comment until December 13. The draft plan is available online at www.greenways.com/chimneyrock_download.html.

Chimney Rock State Park includes the classic Rumbling Bald cliffline and boulderfield. In additionaly the park includes or is slated to include several lesser-known, high quality cliffs such as Ghost Town, the north side of Rumbling Balk, Eagle Rock, Cloven Cliffs, and the cliffs of the Chimney Rock attraction. Some of these outlying areas have 20+ years of climbing history.

The Chimney Rock State Park Master Plan will guide land management in the park over the next 20 years. Currently this plan makes misguided statements about the impacts of climbing and endangers the future of climbing in Hickory Nut Gorge.

The Carolina Climbers' Coalition and the Access Fund are working together to provide key comments regarding climbing access and management. Help ensure climbers' voices are heard. Urge park planners to protect current and future climbing access in Chimney Rock State Park by visiting the Access Fund website and using their letter-writing tool.

The park planners need to hear you thoughts today.

If you are willing, just take a second and help out the Carolina Climbers' Coalition and climbers across the Southeast who use the facilities at Chimney Rock State Park.

Thanks,

Brion

Triple Crown, Stone Fort/LRC

Saturday, with rain clouds overhead, 400 climbers filed onto buses in order to compete in the final leg of the Triple Crown. 20 minutes later as the buses rolled to a stop in front of Montlake Golf Club the rain was already beginning to fall. I was feeling super rushed and my first 5 times off the ground I climbed Brian's Bain (v1), Dragon Lady (v4), Tri-star (v4), Dragon Man (v9), and The Law (v11). But the rain calmed down and so did I.

I moved toward the back of the field and climbed The Shield (v11), Biggie Shorty Extension (v12) and New Sensations (v10). At this point a crazy cloud moved in and a misty rain began to fall. Everything became super difficult and I began failing. I couldn't climb Electric Boogaloo (v10), The Chattanoogan (v12), Reflections (v10), or I Think I Can (v9). At this point I had holes in two fingers and a split in one - a consequence of trying to climb on wet crimpers. I needed some good holds and so I moved over to do Robbin' the Tooth Fairy (v9) and Blind Spot (v7). At this point it was downright soaked but I managed to eek out sends of both boulders. Deeming it too dangerous to continue, judges began herding competitors toward the buses. It was over and I was glad. All in all, I had a great time climbing with Ronnie and hanging out with a bunch of fun people. I even placed 2nd in both LRC and overall! Check out the Triple Crown results page for the full results.

I leave for Hueco Friday and until then I'll be studying for exams. Also, thanks to everyone at Triple Crown for all your hard work.

Later,

Brion

Another Arkansas Weekend

So we spent Thanksgiving weekend in Arkansas. I can't even express the love I have for that place - it is by far my favorite climbing area. Life there is slow and uncomplicated; there is no cell service, no crowds, no rush, nothing at all except friends, rock climbing, farm animals, and the Ozark Cafe.

As far as climbing goes, I was really amped to give Wood Grain Grippin' (v14) some efforts this trip and so Jimmy and I made our way out there on day 1 to see what we could do. I learned that due to a tendon injury last year I couldn't grab the weird 3 finger undercling like everyone else - I have to get 4 fingers on it from the start. That means a much more difficult first move but a proportionally easier finish. Jimmy and I both had several near send attempts before he hurt his finger and I'm super psyched to return in December to try and finish it off.

In the mean time friends Hugh and Jacob were enjoying their introduction to Arkansas bouldering climbing on all the classics like Glass Bowl, Flash Gordon, Fred's Cave, Jeff's Prow, and Ab Lounge.

Anyway, Jimmy and I were able to finish the trip off right with sends of The Dirty 30 (v12). Here's a vid. of me climbing it:



Also, John Gass put together a vid. of me climbing the Whole Shebang a while back. Check it out:



Exams are coming up and I'm about to get super busy. But Hueco is also around the corner - we leave next Friday!

Later,

Brion

The Roof

Lately I've been super unmotivated in the gym. Problem is, between school, work, and crappy weather I don't have the time to get out much. But the semester is about done and I'll be heading to Hueco in two weeks! I've got some serious goals there including Esperanza, Slashface, and Nagual. In anticipation of climbing in the Martini cave, a bunch of us went up to Dayton on Sunday to climb on the roof. It had been a couple years since I last climbed on it and I was expecting to feel uncoordinated and week on such steep terrain. I did at first but after I got nice and warm the roof felt like an old friend. I was able to repeat a couple of the difficult lines including The Whole Shebang (v12) - a 29 move pump fest Ronnie and I spent a lot of time on a couple years ago. Weaver also killed it for the 4th ascent. We spent the rest of the day repeating classics.

We are heading back out to Arkansas this weekend. On the list are Wood Grain Grippin', Forever Botany, and Dirty 30. Very Psyched!

Happy Thanksgiving everyone,

Brion

Lost in the Hood and Weekend Recap

Ok, here are a couple videos from this weekend and one that's not. Props to Jimmy for the vids. Enjoy:

I can't even believe how this weekend went. We (Jimmy, Nate, Rami, and I) finally rolled down the hill into Horseshoe Canyon Ranch at midnight Friday after the 9 hour drive. It was raining.

When we woke up Saturday fog and clouds were lingering but boulders were dry - and it was finally cold! We decided to head up to try The Anti-Hero (v12) and after climbing Jeff's Prow (v9), made our way to the other side of the boulder. It felt hard! The second move for me is super bunchy and feels very violent and powerful. I wasn't even sure I could do it at first. I took a break and decided to try the boulder just to the left, Loved by Few Hated by Many (v12). It was a boulder I couldn't really touch last year. In a few tries though, I had worked it out and was able to send. It is one of my all time favorites. In the mean time Nate and Rami climbed Flash Gordon (v10) - Nate's old nemesis - and Jimmy climbed The Anti-Hero. I re-focused my attention and was able to climb to the last move on Anti-Hero before blowing it. But I had tried hard and was super tired. Jimmy and I wanted to get some attempts Wood Grain Grippin' (v14) before dark as well so we packed it up.

Wood Grain felt hard as well and after trying it for a bit neither Jimmy nor I was able to send. I broke the left start foot, making the first move a little more difficult. Jimmy and I were also having trouble keeping our foot on the next left foothold. The rock here is not the best and it seems that the key high left foot is crumbling a little. How well this one will stand the test of time seems in question (the finish jugs are thin as well) - I just hope to climb it before it becomes impossible.

I woke up Sunday morning sore but psyched to try and finish off the Anti-Hero. After a little work I was able to do so. Rami quickly finished Jeff's Prow as well and Nate was making good attempts on Loved by Few. But Nate and Rami were both psyched to go check out Fred's Cave and so that's what we did.

It was packed! There were probably about 20 people hanging out around the roof - I haven't ever seen 20 climbers in one spot in Arkansas. Anyway, Jimmy and I were just chillin' out waiting to go try Lost in the Hood (v14) and once it started cooling down we headed over.

The boulder was gross. There was some wet green slime and a bunch of mud in the right start hold. We did out best to clean it out but our expectations were low. I pulled on the wall and tried hard. Immediately I knew it was possible. I was expecting it every try and eventually I just did the move and took it to the top. It was an unbelievable feeling!

Then Monday before we left we went to check out a new line in Cowell called Off the Rails (v10). It turned out to be one of the nicest lines I've seen in Arkansas. Very good rock and very nice movement.

I guess that's it,

Brion

Horse Pens blog

I wrote a Horse Pens blog on the 5.10 site. Click here to read it. We are gonna be heading to Arkansas this weekend and I'm getting super excited. Stay tuned for that.

-Brion

HELP the SCC

The Southeastern Climbers Coalition is a candidate to win a $250,000 in the Pepsi Refresh Project. All we need to do is vote - everyday.

Here is the link. Please help us out and give a vote for access in the Southeast. Even if you don't live in the Southeast, maybe you'll visit one day. VOTE!!!!!

-Brion

Boone Vid

Brad put together a vid of our trip to Boone last week. It's super good. Check it:



-Voges

More Boone photos

We were out from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. yesterday in Boone - long day. I was able to finish off the Big Black Crack which I am stoked about. Anyway, here are a couple pictures I took of Rami trying Sinderella (v12):



I guess that's all for now...

-Brion

Boone photos

I didn't take a lot of photos in Boone but I thought I would share these:

Nate spotting Tyree the wooly worm at Blowing Rock

Nate on Sunday Service

Nate on Sunday Service again

The crew is heading back to Boone tomorrow. I'm really hoping to put Black Crack together and I would love to finish of Don Johnson (v11) as well. I've been sick the past couple days so I'm hoping I feel better by then. Psyched!

-Brion

Boone

Boone is sick. I am so psyched on the Big Black Crack. I tried it this weekend but it didn't come together for me and I can't wait to get back to it. Talk about tuffa pinches on an overhang!

Here's the vid of jimmy climbing it and me doin' Random Man:



Got fall break this weekend and we will be back in NC. Can't wait!

-Brion

The Weekend

I pulled my '93 Jeep Cherokee off the interstate on Friday with a smoking engine and on Monday dropped it off with a mechanic. Turns out I "blowed a gasket head" and my car is virtually worthless. For now I'm just bumming around but I'm going to have to cough up the money for a new car soon. I don't yet know how this is going to affect my climbing plans over the next year but it's not looking good.

Anyway, Saturday was the Hound Ears comp. It felt really tough this year and I failed on a lot of boulders. Hanging out with the crew was super fun though and I'm psyched to have a great group of guys around this season. The thing that Triple Crown does best is bring everyone together. It may not be very fun climbing next to 400 of your best friends but it is fun hanging out once the climbing is done.

On Tuesday Jimmy, Nate Draughn (Chattanooga's newest resident), and I went out to LRC. We climbed a lot of boulders, even a new one - a one move undercling problem on a short boulder left of the trail just before Super Mario. In the new guide I believe they call it v10 but after claiming a flash a piece Jimmy and I agreed it's probably more like v9.

We are also camera-less at the moment. I would really love to buy a new one but after the car incident and while saving for trips this winter I'm not sure if I'm gonna be able to afford it. I think we are gonna head down to Horse Pens this weekend despite the predicted heat - at this point I think everyone is tired of climbing indoors.

Lata,

Brion

Dunkie Doobie v10

So here is a really old video of me climbing a problem at Little Rock City. I was 16.

Thanks to John Gass for the edit and for keeping all this old footage.

Later,

Brion

5.10 demo @ Hound Ears

I had a great campus session last night. Until now, a lingering pulley injury has prevented me from getting on the campus board. But my finger has been feeling better and I just decided to go for it. Anyway, I'm glad I did - I will at least have a little confidence going into the Hound Ears comp.

I got a new pair of shoes as well - more team 5.10s - and I spent some time last night breaking them in. I know I've mentioned it before, but I love these shoes! They make me look good. I'm also looking forward to (and you should too)the 5.10 demo at the comp this weekend. Fiveten is going to have full demo runs of all the new shoes - Blackwings, Hornets, Quantums - get psyched to climb in some shoes that aren't even for sale yet!

Until then,

Brion

Self-control

I think of myself as having a high level of self-control. To think otherwise would be to doubt in my ability to succeed in life.

psyche

It seems that everyone is getting stuff done...except me. School is in full effect now and time for climbing seems to be disappearing. I've been getting into the air-conditionerless gym a lot though - really the only viable option this time of year being that it's still 90 degrees in Chatt. Jimmy and I have set some hard boulders including simulators of both Lost in the Hood and Wood Grain Grippin'. I'm determined, and I've begun to feel that its possible, to climb my first v14(s?) this winter. I've also been working - saving for a trip to South Africa in June - I'm very psyched. The list of boulders to climb there is huge, I mean it's SOUTH AFRICA for christ's sake!

Anyway, relief is in sight as far as the weather goes - some trees have started to change colors (though I'm not sure if it's due to falling temperatures or lack of rain) and October is around the corner. I can't wait until it cools enough for projects around the South and Arkansas weekends.

I've also been climbing in some of the new 5.10 phantoms and I would like to give them a small shout out. The Phantoms are a purple, downturned, lace-up perfect for routes but still good on boulders. They climb well on both faces and overhangs, fit in pockets, are solid on edges and can even smear! They fit very similar to the Anasazi lace-ups. Though you can't buy them yet, be on the lookout for these and a bunch of other new models this fall and spring.

Finally, I wanted to post some links to vids that are gettin' me psyched. Here they are:

Paul Robinson climbing Lost in the Hood (v14)

Paul Robinson climbing Wood Grain Grippin' (v14)

Jesse Bonin climbing Derailed (v14)

Nalle climbing Sky (v14)

Late,

Voges

Back in Action

Well I just got back from the beach - 7 days with no climbing - and I devised a new training plan. I can't wait to implement it. I guess I don't have a whole lot else to say but I'll be checking in periodically about training and other stuff.

Later

Stone Summit

I drove down to ATL on Monday with Jimmy to check out Stone Summit. Report: the place is sick - by far the coolest gym I've seen. The walls are huge (to lower from the massive roof you need a 70 meter rope), the holds are cool, the staff is friendly; there's a workout room, kiddie area, treadmills, snack bar, retail store, and some stellar bouldering. The thing that's missing: a campus board. But supposedly its in the works. I am very psyched to have this place just down the road.

I also thought I would post some pictures from my dad and I's little trip to the Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks.

Trade Show and Other Stuff

I was at the trade show Tuesday and Wednesday. It's always interesting to see new product and talk with all climbing's athletes. I'm happy to say that Five Ten and Organic both have some really impressive new products. Organic is now making stellar backpacks - a cragging model, and a bullet style pack. Check them out if you're in the market for a new pack. And Five Ten will be adding several new shoes to their already impressive line this spring. Look forward to a slightly stiffer Project, a downturned anasazi verde, and an amazing new lifestyle/skate/bike shoe called the dirtbag.

Otherwise, Ben Tsui is in town and we've spent the last couple days climbing. Yesterday we were at Lincoln Lake where I repeated a couple moderates - Chalk on Rock (v8) and Brian Capp's new one - Cloak of the Tiger (v8). I also did this super scary slab climb. It was a fun day outside and a good last day in Colorado. That's right, I'm heading home and I'm very excited about it.

Here are a couple pics Ben took:

The Slab

I'm pretty psyched to get home and start training again and I can't wait to check out the new gym - Stone Summit.

Oh, and check out LT11's Pogo series:

Have a good rest of the summer everyone.

Brion

Laying In Wait

Its been raining a lot lately but we've gotten in some climbing. And the rainbows have been nice...


Yesterday John and I went to Lincoln Lake. John made quick work of Chalk on Rock (v8). And I tried Daniel's newest v14, The Exfoliator. I did all but the second move which felt quite hard and awkward. I even did what I thought would be the crux (the final move to an undercling) first try. Photo:


Afterwards John and I decided to go try the v8 slab Laying in Wait. It's a very friction dependent boulder (slopers) and the summer weather was less than ideal. Somehow I managed to slap my way to the top. Check the video:



That's all for now,

Brion

Another

My motivation has been suffering lately. After a full summer of hiking and climbing it seems that all I want to do is sit on the couch, watch a movie, and eat some good food. John and I have been to Movement a couple time though to test the endurance. Turns out mine's not very good. I've noticed that no matter the difficulty of the route, whether it be 12d or 13c, I can make it about 3/4 the way up the steep wall before losing steam. It's been fun though, a nice change of pace from bouldering. But my left middle finger has been giving me some trouble - another pulley... So I wont be competing the trade show comp. As for bouldering outdoors there are a couple more things I would like to cross off my list before the summer is up and yesterday I was able to get one done - I Comb My Hair Like God (v11).

John Gass and I met Jon Glassberg and Ryan Silven in upper chaos and after figuring the beta Glassberg pulled it off. After a little more effort and the loss of all my gym skin I finally figured out the body positions and did it. It's starting to feel more and more like summer in the park. That is, there are more mosquitoes, less snow, and afternoons are hotter than ever. I have another couple weeks before I'll be back home in the real heat and until then I'll be out climbing...

Brion

The Amazing Red Bull

Yesterday John sat a half full Red Bull can on top of the car, forgot about it, drove from Lincoln Lake to Idaho Springs (about 20 switchbacking miles), stopped at McDonalds for a McFlurry and upon returning to the car noticed the Red Bull can still standing upright on the roof of the car. Amazing...

Other than that though not much has been going on - the weather has been limiting. It seems that every climbing day is plagued with heat, rain, humidity or a combination of the three. I thought I would post some pics though so here they are:

Nate climbing a slab at Lincoln Lake

Nate flashing Potato Chip (v7)

Me trying to figure out the slot project at Lincoln Lake

-Brion

Lincoln

We went up to Lincoln Lake again yesterday... It was a nice day - sunny and windy.

After the warm up I was feeling pretty good and I was psyched on trying Daniel's The Great War for Civilisation (v13). I ended up falling off the last move 4 times... bummer. The last move is this huge right handed lurch to a sidepull sloper. The hold is extremely difficult to see and hitting it right is tough. From there its a simple left hand move to a jug. Here's a picture Nate took of me midway through the boulder. (the last hold is at the very top of the frame). next time...


On the bright side I ended up climbing this beautiful slab/face for its first ascent. The boulder starts on a nice protruding shelf feature with a big right foot and climbs up and right over another boulder. It ended up being a dyno from the shelf up and right to a sidepull jug at the lip. The downside is that you have to pick your feet up really high to avoid dabbing on the other boulder. I decided to call it Purple Is Not a Color. As for the grade, v10 seems appropriate though it may be easier (its an extremely weird problem). Here's a pic:


Also, here is a video of Nate climbing Unshackled and Whispers of Wisdom:



-Brion

Unshackled v10

Here's a quick video of John Gass climbing Unshackled at Lincoln Lake:



-Brion

Videos

Ok so here are the videos as promised. Enjoy.

Part 1:



Part 2:

Park Days

The past few days at the park have been fun and I've been able to get up a few boulders as well. Most notably I was able to climb Nuthin but Sunshine (v13). We have gotten lots of video and it should be up in the next couple days. In the mean time here are some photos:

Me on Golden Rows of Flows (v10)
photo: Jimmy Webb

John on Golden Rows of Flows
photo: Jimmy Webb

John on Barbed Wire Beard (v10/11)

- Brion

Success

So I cut my hair - shaved it. Well not fully shaved, but its about a quarter of an inch long and after quite a long string of failures I was even considering war paint on climbing days but fortunately it never came to that.

Sunday was a great day and we got it all on video (check the hair). Here it is (my first edit):


and here is a picture I took of Nate climbing Gangbang (v8):

I owe some of my success to the fact that I got some new shoes. All I have to say is that the Team 5.10s are the best shoes ever made. Their perfect mix of sensitivity and edging power along with a bomber heal and the best rubber on the market have really helped me get up some boulders lately. Check them out!


-Brion

Failure

Climbers are intimately familiar with failure. It haunts their projects and looms eerily overhead until vanquished by some stronger force. Recently I have been lost in a fog of failure. For two weeks I have failed to climb even one boulder. It's a difficult pill to swallow. Sure, I have been close on several difficult boulders and I have had some trouble with forearm pain, but embracing this failure and remaining confident in the face of it is one of the most difficult things I have ever had to do. I'm confident though that things will come together in the end.

-Brion

Chaos

This summary is not available. Please click here to view the post.

CO Vid

Here's the second installment from Colorado. In order of appearance it features Stinkbug (v10), Whispers of Wisdom (v10), Storm Shadow sit (v11) and Hi-Fi (v11). Enjoy...

Emerald

I had forgotten how incredible Rock Mountain National Park really is. The snow, the scenery, the wildlife, and the climbing combine in a way only the Power Rangers and Planeteers have done on early morning television. Spending the past couple days climbing at Emerald Lake have jogged my memory though and we have been having quite a fun time up in the mountains. Yesterday for example I witnessed an EPIC BATTLE between two climbers, Nathan Drolet and John Gass, and the compression problem Storm Shadow (v10). For hours both climbers fought to defeat the boulder but unfortunately their advances were repelled. Here are some photos:




As for me, I climbed the Storm Shadow sit start (v11) which adds two hard moves into the v10. Video to come.

-Brion

Clear Creek Canyon

Went to Clear Creek yesterday afternoon to try Echale (v13/14). It was stupid hot and the thing felt hard. Instead we focused on climbing some classics: North Shore (v9) and Animal (v9). I was able to climb both on my first attempt. Here is a cool photo I took of Nate on Animal:


It's really warming up here, hopefully alpine areas will be climbable soon...

-Brion

Black Ice

It was hot yesterday afternoon as Nate, Jimmy and I made the hike to Black Ice (v10). Our directions were poor as well and we spent the majority of the 50 minute hike wondering if we were even headed in the right direction. I thought it might be helpful therefore to post more specific directions.

From the intersection of Broadway St. and Table Mesa Dr.:
1. Continue up Table Mesa Dr.
2. Turn L on Lehigh St.
3. Turn R on Cragmoor Rd.
4. Park in the Cul-de-sac at the top Cragmoor Rd.
5. Directly out of the car the trail forks
6. From first fork go R
7. The tail forks several more times
8. In order of appearance turn R, R, Farthest R, L, L, R
9. The boulder is an obvious roof to the left of the trail just right of a bolted red arete.

Anyway, we eventually found the boulder. A nice stream was running over the landing and we spent another thirty minutes or so piling rocks and branches across it. I put on my shoes and for the second time began the painful process of warming up on a v10 (maybe this is why my pulley is bothering me). 4 tries later, and still not warm, I was on top. I've heard a lot about this boulder in the past and I now I agree, Black Ice is one of the best boulders of the grade in Colorado. Jimmy also quickly dispatched and Nate came desperately close. Another fun day. Here's a shot:



-Brion

Recent Activity

I've played about 20 hours of Xbox this past week. All I have to say is that Call of Duty Modern Warfare 2 is the bomb!


Spring rains have kept us cooped up in the house playing video games but between showers we have continued our exploration of Colorado's front range bouldering.

A couple days ago we visited Newlin Creek for the first time. Unfortunately the area was shrouded in thick clouds spiting rain/snow/mist. After the two hour drive from Denver though we were determined to see a boulder at the very least. Newlin is a fairly secluded area with boulders nestled between tall trees and steep canyon walls. The warm up was unusually difficult and I found myself missing comfortable LRC jugs. Eventually I found myself warm and at the top of a cool arete climb called The Nickness (v10), a must do for any Newlin goer with the gumption. Around the boulder is William Shatner which climbs a series of sidepulls to a highball topout. It took a minute but I got the boulder done and so did Jimmy. Mission accomplished! We have video but have been having some trouble getting it onto a computer for editing. Hopefully we'll have it all sorted out soon.

We also got up to Boulder Canyon to try Free Range (v13) the sit start to Cage Free. After a few tries I was convinced it would go but the sun, which hadn't made an appearance in days, was blasting the boulder. It wasn't long before the holds were baked and my skin was hurting. If we get some better temps I'll be back to finish this one off. We also tried Authentic Battle Damage (v12) an ultra compression roof line. I don't think I've ever tried a boulder more outside my style and I was shut down. Jimmy did it though in trademark random style.

Tomorrow we are going to be heading out to try the classic Black Ice (v10). Stay tuned.

-Voges

Joe's Video

Poudre

It's been nonstop since we rolled in. I've only had one day of rest in the last seven. But stuff has been going down left and right. Jimmy and I both had great days at Poudre Canyon Saturday repeating nearly every difficult boulder at the 420s. After a quick warm up we quickly dispatched the surprisingly difficult Canopener (v11). It was fun and powerful despite the slightly damp holds. Circadian Rhythm (v13) on the backside was feeling too wet to try so we moved on over to the Sharma Lunge (v9) a cool, very height dependent one move boulder which Jimmy and I both flashed. To left of Sharma Lunge is Chris Schulte's line What's Left of the Bottom of My Heart (v12). The boulder revolves around a difficult first move and then more compression leading to a jug at the lip. After a quick beta session and some real try hard Jimmy and I both sent the boulder. We chilled for a bit waiting for Circadian to dry up a bit and in the mean time Nate sent a cool boulder called Tilt (v9). Then amazingly, Jimmy and I both made quick ascents of Circadian. I had to figure out some different beta due to my height and the length of my appendages but I made it work in the end. One of the best days of my life! Check the vid:




That's all for now.

-Voges

Joe's

Just got back from Joe's last night. We only spent three days in Utah but I managed to put together a pretty good list of boulders:

1. Two Finger Variation (v9)
2. Resident Evil (v10) FLASH
3. Ghost King (v10)
4. The Angler (v1)
5. Big Joe left (v11)
6. Worm Turns (v10)
7. They Call Him Michael (v8)
8. Wills of Fire (v6)
9. Playmate of the Year (v9)
10. Battletoads (v10)
11. Man From the Past (v11)

Unfortunately we couldn't make it across the river to try the Masterpiece (v13) but this one is high on my lifetime list and I'll be returning for it. Jimmy and I also tried Black Lung (v13) with no success. Here are a couple photos and there should be a little footage soon as well.

Big Joe left

Playmate of the Year

Worm Turns

-voges

Joe's Valley

I am very psyched! Jimmy, Nate, and I are leaving tomorrow for Joe's Valley. Joe's has been at the top of my list of places to visit for a while. Things that have me psyched are Black Lung, The Masterpiece, and pretty much every other boulder seeing as I've never touched any of them. After 7 weeks climbing inside, I can't wait to climb on real rock again!

The quick excursion to Joe's precedes a three month stint in Colorado. I will be climbing everything in sight and obviously, there will be much more to come.

-b

WOW

So I haven't been posting very much. I've got so much going on with school and training that I don't have time for much else. But it will be over soon. I finish up school next week and then it will be on to Colorado. So psyched and feeling strong!

I promise I'll post something substantial soon,

Brion

Training Log #1

Thursday, March 25

Day 1. Can't wait to get the training ball rolling. It's been a while since I've had the time and motivation to focus on specific training and I definitely feel like I can use the conditioning. In the past I have found that the first week is the most difficult - training requires that schedules be rearranged, eating and sleeping habits overhauled and a general shift in attitue toward pain. But I'm prepared and today I felt ok. I did an early ab workout. I'll be sore tomorrow. I also did some campusing today for the first time in about 9 months. Surprisingly, I feel that I've gained a lot of strength over that time and it's quite motivating to feel that progression. The campus sesh was quick, leaving me some time to climb around. My new program incorporates regular bouldering and power endurance into a session followed by systems and then a warm down. The first day left me feeling wrecked but content. Ready for more tomorrow!

Friday, March 26

Feeling tired from yesterday and not happy to wake at 6:45 for classes. Jo Beth is in town as well which is taking away my motivation. I got a new fingerboard yesterday - the Moon one - and I'm psyched to try it out. I thought that I would get in a session on it before heading to the gym and I decided to give this workout a try. I found the prescribed 1 arm deadhangs and pull-ups particularly challenging (especially as the door frame constricts my space). I ended up using a piece of webbing to take some weight. In general, I have found that fingerboards are good tools to measure progress because they measure such small intervals. For example, if you can hold a position for 5 seconds in March and 7 seconds by April, progress is obvious and rewarding. I felt tired to the point of being sleepy heading into the afternoon climbing session but I forced it anyway. I climbed some moderates and began the systems program in my Friday workout. It went surprisingly well and I finished up with some endurance. A good day all in all but I am very tired and expect motivation to be low tomorrow.

Saturday, March 27

My alarm went off an hour and a half before I was supposed to be at work. The idea was that I could get in a quick session on the fingerboard and a good ab workout beforehand. I laid in bed a little too long though and my fingerboard workout was shortened as a result. It's probably a good thing anyway because my tendons and skin are not cooperating. I'm going to call it.

Sunday, March 28

Rest! Finally! The good thing is I feel like I've really earned it. More training tomorrow.

Monday, March 29

Went to the gym after all my morning classes to get in a campus workout. It felt a little more difficult today but I was working alone this time and motivation was slightly less. Afterwards I ran home to grab some food and then headed back to the gym to meet Hugh Huffaker for an evening bouldering session. It went ok but my skin started hurting before I could do the volume of climbing I wanted. I don't think that 2 hours of rest between sessions is a good idea. Hope it feels better tomorrow.

Tuesday, March 30

I got a good night sleep last night and I woke up feeling good with the exception of my skin. The nonstop training has left my skin feeling burned and stiff. I forced a fingerboard workout despite the pain. I thought I might have to break out the ibuprofen for my scheduled evening workout. It is the shoe demoing tonight at Urban Rocks in Chattanooga. I went down to help out and got in a small bouldering session as well. Unfortunately it was smaller than I had hoped for - only about an hour and a half - but my skin is worked and my fingernails even hurt. I wish my skin would shape up so I could accomplish my training goals. Tomorrow is rest and I really can't wait.

Wednesday, March 31

I can't believe it's the last day of March already. Very tired and a little sore today - happy to have some rest.

More Bishop Pictures

So there hasn't been much going on in Chattanooga lately in terms of climbing outdoors. I've been busy in the gym though, trying to get a little stronger before I leave for Colorado in May. In case you're interested in training I've decided to keep a training log for the next month and I will be posting it occasionally.

For your viewing pleasure, here are some more pictures from Bishop...

Me on Spectre
photo: Jo Beth Richards

Me on Spectre 2
photo: Jo Beth Richards

Me on Spectre 3
photo: Jo Beth Richards

Jimmy on Spectre
photo: Jo Beth Richards

Me on the Swarm 1
photo: Jo Beth Richards

Me on the Swarm 2
photo: Jo Beth Richards

Jimmy on the Swarm
photo: Jo Beth Richards

Me and Jo Beth from Spectre

Jacob Fellers on Acid Wash

That's all.

-Brion

Pictures

Camping at the Pit

Me and Jo Beth
Photo: Jimmy Webb

Isabelle on Fall Guy

The Happy Boulders

Xavier's Roof
Photo: Jo Beth Richards

Jo Beth on the Jigsaw Wall

Jimmy's Tips after trying the Swarm