The Weekend

I pulled my '93 Jeep Cherokee off the interstate on Friday with a smoking engine and on Monday dropped it off with a mechanic. Turns out I "blowed a gasket head" and my car is virtually worthless. For now I'm just bumming around but I'm going to have to cough up the money for a new car soon. I don't yet know how this is going to affect my climbing plans over the next year but it's not looking good.

Anyway, Saturday was the Hound Ears comp. It felt really tough this year and I failed on a lot of boulders. Hanging out with the crew was super fun though and I'm psyched to have a great group of guys around this season. The thing that Triple Crown does best is bring everyone together. It may not be very fun climbing next to 400 of your best friends but it is fun hanging out once the climbing is done.

On Tuesday Jimmy, Nate Draughn (Chattanooga's newest resident), and I went out to LRC. We climbed a lot of boulders, even a new one - a one move undercling problem on a short boulder left of the trail just before Super Mario. In the new guide I believe they call it v10 but after claiming a flash a piece Jimmy and I agreed it's probably more like v9.

We are also camera-less at the moment. I would really love to buy a new one but after the car incident and while saving for trips this winter I'm not sure if I'm gonna be able to afford it. I think we are gonna head down to Horse Pens this weekend despite the predicted heat - at this point I think everyone is tired of climbing indoors.

Lata,

Brion

Dunkie Doobie v10

So here is a really old video of me climbing a problem at Little Rock City. I was 16.

Thanks to John Gass for the edit and for keeping all this old footage.

Later,

Brion

5.10 demo @ Hound Ears

I had a great campus session last night. Until now, a lingering pulley injury has prevented me from getting on the campus board. But my finger has been feeling better and I just decided to go for it. Anyway, I'm glad I did - I will at least have a little confidence going into the Hound Ears comp.

I got a new pair of shoes as well - more team 5.10s - and I spent some time last night breaking them in. I know I've mentioned it before, but I love these shoes! They make me look good. I'm also looking forward to (and you should too)the 5.10 demo at the comp this weekend. Fiveten is going to have full demo runs of all the new shoes - Blackwings, Hornets, Quantums - get psyched to climb in some shoes that aren't even for sale yet!

Until then,

Brion

Self-control

I think of myself as having a high level of self-control. To think otherwise would be to doubt in my ability to succeed in life.

psyche

It seems that everyone is getting stuff done...except me. School is in full effect now and time for climbing seems to be disappearing. I've been getting into the air-conditionerless gym a lot though - really the only viable option this time of year being that it's still 90 degrees in Chatt. Jimmy and I have set some hard boulders including simulators of both Lost in the Hood and Wood Grain Grippin'. I'm determined, and I've begun to feel that its possible, to climb my first v14(s?) this winter. I've also been working - saving for a trip to South Africa in June - I'm very psyched. The list of boulders to climb there is huge, I mean it's SOUTH AFRICA for christ's sake!

Anyway, relief is in sight as far as the weather goes - some trees have started to change colors (though I'm not sure if it's due to falling temperatures or lack of rain) and October is around the corner. I can't wait until it cools enough for projects around the South and Arkansas weekends.

I've also been climbing in some of the new 5.10 phantoms and I would like to give them a small shout out. The Phantoms are a purple, downturned, lace-up perfect for routes but still good on boulders. They climb well on both faces and overhangs, fit in pockets, are solid on edges and can even smear! They fit very similar to the Anasazi lace-ups. Though you can't buy them yet, be on the lookout for these and a bunch of other new models this fall and spring.

Finally, I wanted to post some links to vids that are gettin' me psyched. Here they are:

Paul Robinson climbing Lost in the Hood (v14)

Paul Robinson climbing Wood Grain Grippin' (v14)

Jesse Bonin climbing Derailed (v14)

Nalle climbing Sky (v14)

Late,

Voges