Saturday, with rain clouds overhead, 400 climbers filed onto buses in order to compete in the final leg of the Triple Crown. 20 minutes later as the buses rolled to a stop in front of Montlake Golf Club the rain was already beginning to fall. I was feeling super rushed and my first 5 times off the ground I climbed Brian's Bain (v1), Dragon Lady (v4), Tri-star (v4), Dragon Man (v9), and The Law (v11). But the rain calmed down and so did I.
I moved toward the back of the field and climbed The Shield (v11), Biggie Shorty Extension (v12) and New Sensations (v10). At this point a crazy cloud moved in and a misty rain began to fall. Everything became super difficult and I began failing. I couldn't climb Electric Boogaloo (v10), The Chattanoogan (v12), Reflections (v10), or I Think I Can (v9). At this point I had holes in two fingers and a split in one - a consequence of trying to climb on wet crimpers. I needed some good holds and so I moved over to do Robbin' the Tooth Fairy (v9) and Blind Spot (v7). At this point it was downright soaked but I managed to eek out sends of both boulders. Deeming it too dangerous to continue, judges began herding competitors toward the buses. It was over and I was glad. All in all, I had a great time climbing with Ronnie and hanging out with a bunch of fun people. I even placed 2nd in both LRC and overall! Check out the Triple Crown results page for the full results.
I leave for Hueco Friday and until then I'll be studying for exams. Also, thanks to everyone at Triple Crown for all your hard work.
Later,
Brion
Sunday, December 5, 2010
Tuesday, November 30, 2010
Another Arkansas Weekend
So we spent Thanksgiving weekend in Arkansas. I can't even express the love I have for that place - it is by far my favorite climbing area. Life there is slow and uncomplicated; there is no cell service, no crowds, no rush, nothing at all except friends, rock climbing, farm animals, and the Ozark Cafe.
As far as climbing goes, I was really amped to give Wood Grain Grippin' (v14) some efforts this trip and so Jimmy and I made our way out there on day 1 to see what we could do. I learned that due to a tendon injury last year I couldn't grab the weird 3 finger undercling like everyone else - I have to get 4 fingers on it from the start. That means a much more difficult first move but a proportionally easier finish. Jimmy and I both had several near send attempts before he hurt his finger and I'm super psyched to return in December to try and finish it off.
In the mean time friends Hugh and Jacob were enjoying their introduction to Arkansas bouldering climbing on all the classics like Glass Bowl, Flash Gordon, Fred's Cave, Jeff's Prow, and Ab Lounge.
Anyway, Jimmy and I were able to finish the trip off right with sends of The Dirty 30 (v12). Here's a vid. of me climbing it:
Also, John Gass put together a vid. of me climbing the Whole Shebang a while back. Check it out:
Exams are coming up and I'm about to get super busy. But Hueco is also around the corner - we leave next Friday!
Later,
Brion
As far as climbing goes, I was really amped to give Wood Grain Grippin' (v14) some efforts this trip and so Jimmy and I made our way out there on day 1 to see what we could do. I learned that due to a tendon injury last year I couldn't grab the weird 3 finger undercling like everyone else - I have to get 4 fingers on it from the start. That means a much more difficult first move but a proportionally easier finish. Jimmy and I both had several near send attempts before he hurt his finger and I'm super psyched to return in December to try and finish it off.
In the mean time friends Hugh and Jacob were enjoying their introduction to Arkansas bouldering climbing on all the classics like Glass Bowl, Flash Gordon, Fred's Cave, Jeff's Prow, and Ab Lounge.
Anyway, Jimmy and I were able to finish the trip off right with sends of The Dirty 30 (v12). Here's a vid. of me climbing it:
Also, John Gass put together a vid. of me climbing the Whole Shebang a while back. Check it out:
Exams are coming up and I'm about to get super busy. But Hueco is also around the corner - we leave next Friday!
Later,
Brion
Wednesday, November 24, 2010
The Roof
Lately I've been super unmotivated in the gym. Problem is, between school, work, and crappy weather I don't have the time to get out much. But the semester is about done and I'll be heading to Hueco in two weeks! I've got some serious goals there including Esperanza, Slashface, and Nagual. In anticipation of climbing in the Martini cave, a bunch of us went up to Dayton on Sunday to climb on the roof. It had been a couple years since I last climbed on it and I was expecting to feel uncoordinated and week on such steep terrain. I did at first but after I got nice and warm the roof felt like an old friend. I was able to repeat a couple of the difficult lines including The Whole Shebang (v12) - a 29 move pump fest Ronnie and I spent a lot of time on a couple years ago. Weaver also killed it for the 4th ascent. We spent the rest of the day repeating classics.
We are heading back out to Arkansas this weekend. On the list are Wood Grain Grippin', Forever Botany, and Dirty 30. Very Psyched!
Happy Thanksgiving everyone,
Brion
We are heading back out to Arkansas this weekend. On the list are Wood Grain Grippin', Forever Botany, and Dirty 30. Very Psyched!
Happy Thanksgiving everyone,
Brion
Tuesday, November 16, 2010
Lost in the Hood and Weekend Recap
Ok, here are a couple videos from this weekend and one that's not. Props to Jimmy for the vids. Enjoy:
When we woke up Saturday fog and clouds were lingering but boulders were dry - and it was finally cold! We decided to head up to try The Anti-Hero (v12) and after climbing Jeff's Prow (v9), made our way to the other side of the boulder. It felt hard! The second move for me is super bunchy and feels very violent and powerful. I wasn't even sure I could do it at first. I took a break and decided to try the boulder just to the left, Loved by Few Hated by Many (v12). It was a boulder I couldn't really touch last year. In a few tries though, I had worked it out and was able to send. It is one of my all time favorites. In the mean time Nate and Rami climbed Flash Gordon (v10) - Nate's old nemesis - and Jimmy climbed The Anti-Hero. I re-focused my attention and was able to climb to the last move on Anti-Hero before blowing it. But I had tried hard and was super tired. Jimmy and I wanted to get some attempts Wood Grain Grippin' (v14) before dark as well so we packed it up.
Wood Grain felt hard as well and after trying it for a bit neither Jimmy nor I was able to send. I broke the left start foot, making the first move a little more difficult. Jimmy and I were also having trouble keeping our foot on the next left foothold. The rock here is not the best and it seems that the key high left foot is crumbling a little. How well this one will stand the test of time seems in question (the finish jugs are thin as well) - I just hope to climb it before it becomes impossible.
I woke up Sunday morning sore but psyched to try and finish off the Anti-Hero. After a little work I was able to do so. Rami quickly finished Jeff's Prow as well and Nate was making good attempts on Loved by Few. But Nate and Rami were both psyched to go check out Fred's Cave and so that's what we did.
It was packed! There were probably about 20 people hanging out around the roof - I haven't ever seen 20 climbers in one spot in Arkansas. Anyway, Jimmy and I were just chillin' out waiting to go try Lost in the Hood (v14) and once it started cooling down we headed over.
The boulder was gross. There was some wet green slime and a bunch of mud in the right start hold. We did out best to clean it out but our expectations were low. I pulled on the wall and tried hard. Immediately I knew it was possible. I was expecting it every try and eventually I just did the move and took it to the top. It was an unbelievable feeling!
Then Monday before we left we went to check out a new line in Cowell called Off the Rails (v10). It turned out to be one of the nicest lines I've seen in Arkansas. Very good rock and very nice movement.
I guess that's it,
Brion
I can't even believe how this weekend went. We (Jimmy, Nate, Rami, and I) finally rolled down the hill into Horseshoe Canyon Ranch at midnight Friday after the 9 hour drive. It was raining.
When we woke up Saturday fog and clouds were lingering but boulders were dry - and it was finally cold! We decided to head up to try The Anti-Hero (v12) and after climbing Jeff's Prow (v9), made our way to the other side of the boulder. It felt hard! The second move for me is super bunchy and feels very violent and powerful. I wasn't even sure I could do it at first. I took a break and decided to try the boulder just to the left, Loved by Few Hated by Many (v12). It was a boulder I couldn't really touch last year. In a few tries though, I had worked it out and was able to send. It is one of my all time favorites. In the mean time Nate and Rami climbed Flash Gordon (v10) - Nate's old nemesis - and Jimmy climbed The Anti-Hero. I re-focused my attention and was able to climb to the last move on Anti-Hero before blowing it. But I had tried hard and was super tired. Jimmy and I wanted to get some attempts Wood Grain Grippin' (v14) before dark as well so we packed it up.
Wood Grain felt hard as well and after trying it for a bit neither Jimmy nor I was able to send. I broke the left start foot, making the first move a little more difficult. Jimmy and I were also having trouble keeping our foot on the next left foothold. The rock here is not the best and it seems that the key high left foot is crumbling a little. How well this one will stand the test of time seems in question (the finish jugs are thin as well) - I just hope to climb it before it becomes impossible.
I woke up Sunday morning sore but psyched to try and finish off the Anti-Hero. After a little work I was able to do so. Rami quickly finished Jeff's Prow as well and Nate was making good attempts on Loved by Few. But Nate and Rami were both psyched to go check out Fred's Cave and so that's what we did.
It was packed! There were probably about 20 people hanging out around the roof - I haven't ever seen 20 climbers in one spot in Arkansas. Anyway, Jimmy and I were just chillin' out waiting to go try Lost in the Hood (v14) and once it started cooling down we headed over.
The boulder was gross. There was some wet green slime and a bunch of mud in the right start hold. We did out best to clean it out but our expectations were low. I pulled on the wall and tried hard. Immediately I knew it was possible. I was expecting it every try and eventually I just did the move and took it to the top. It was an unbelievable feeling!
Then Monday before we left we went to check out a new line in Cowell called Off the Rails (v10). It turned out to be one of the nicest lines I've seen in Arkansas. Very good rock and very nice movement.
I guess that's it,
Brion
Tuesday, November 9, 2010
Horse Pens blog
I wrote a Horse Pens blog on the 5.10 site. Click here to read it. We are gonna be heading to Arkansas this weekend and I'm getting super excited. Stay tuned for that.
-Brion
-Brion
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