Arkansas Video

Arkansas/Epic Journey Recap

I'm back in Chatt after another weekend in Arkansas. I can't even begin to describe how epic the trip was. Arkansas got 8-12 inches of snow last week and I-40 was literally a sheet of ice. Runaway 18-wheelers were wrecked in the median and traffic was stacked up for at least 50 miles. It ended up taking us 8 hours to drive the 120 miles between Memphis and Little Rock! I guess that's like 15 mph.

There was about a foot of snow on the ground when we finally arrived. It was pretty obvious that the boulders were gonna need some work if we wanted to climb. Check out this pic of Brad shoveling snow from the landing at the warm-up boulder:

When we finally rolled in Jo Beth and I headed straight out to Wood Grain Grippin' to try and dry it up. After about an hour of work I had the topout mostly clear of snow. I wasn't even planning on trying it but after watching snow melt drip from the top I got a little nervous and decided to go for it. I felt good, the friction was incredible, and after battling numb toes I was able to pull it off. Back in December I decided that finishing this boulder would be my one remaining goal for the season. I'm incredibly happy to have accomplished the task.

The next day I was also able to climb Southern Lean (v11), Shadow Jumper (v11), and Typhoon (v10). Good couple days...

Nate on War Bonnet (v5)

The epic trip continued the following day as we were forced to clear parts of the road (with a single shovel) from Fred's Cave back to the highway after stupidly driving a couple miles on mud and melting snow. It wasn't until the late afternoon that Brad and I were back at the ranch trying Welcome to Fight Club (v13), a crimpy traverse line. You can watch a vid. of Paul Robinson climbing it here. Small edges are difficult for me right now with my finger at less than 100% but I still did some good work and Brad made a few very good links.

I should have some video soon (though unfortunately none of WGG). Stay tuned...

-Brion

Gettin' Back to It

So I've been getting outside a little more recently. My finger is feeling stronger and the end is in sight - almost. Unfortunately, with a job and school my status is more akin to weekend warrior than I would like. Anyway, Jimmy and I went out to Dayton yesterday with Hugh, Rami, AJ, and Andrew Kornylak to check out this roof project (now dubbed Foundation). It turned out to be sick - tension with a heal-hook through gastons, a stab to a three finger edge, a jump, and an awesome v8 finish. I think it checks in somewhere around v11 and a little harder if you're short. It was super fun to clean up and after figuring out all the beta I punted from the end like a million times - so classic. I actually ended up doing it once but dabbed on Hugh. Whatever... I'm gonna try to get back out there Wednesday before work to finish it. Until then I've got some studying to do - writing this is just another form of procrastination.

There is a big crew heading to Arkansas this weekend and I'm so psyched to get back to Wood Grain after almost doing it back in November. Stay tuned...

-Brion

Ben Shoots Video

So Ben shot this video of our day at Horse Pens. Problems are Bum Boy (v3), Crystal Tips (v8), Slider (v9), and Skywalker (v8). Thanks to Ben for the work. Enjoy!



-Brion

Roots

I had a great session in the gym last night - it was almost like old injury-free times. A month after I hurt it, my finger is finally doing a little better. I still can't climb on small edges but I'm hoping that in a few weeks it will be good to go. For now I'm trying to stick to good holds and slopers.

Ben Tsui and I went down to Horse Pens last weekend to slope it up. Despite snow melting off the topouts, we had a great time and I was even able to do a new boulder - Crystal Tips (v8). It's a balancy slab with a jump-start, a heinously high foot, and a mantle. FUN! I did some others as well and took some photos. Here's one:


I've come a long way in the past few years but I will always I remember climbing Bum Boy for the first time, stopping for a Coke and Doritos on our way home from Rocktown with Mr. Gass, climbing half way up the Shield and wishing the holds kept going, and having sessions at 1 AM because we were just too psyched. A day at Horse Pens with no agenda reminded me of these simpler times - when climbing was just a fun thing we did. Over the years it has somehow changed and it was nice to get back to my roots. This is why we all love climbing!

Hope everyone is lovin' it as much as I am!

Brion