Sunday, January 31, 2010

Friday, January 29, 2010

This Week

A lot has been going on lately. Last week I did an interview for Deadpoint Magazine. Check it out here.

Also, earlier this week Jimmy, Brad Weaver and I filmed a short video with Brant Hawkins of Projekt Media. The film will feature me climbing The Law (v11), Jimmy climbing Western Gold (v11), and Brad on Lord of the Dance (v11). A big thanks to Brant for putting up with our antics, for his excellent camera skills, and for making us look cooler than we really are.

Jimmy, Brad and I had a good day yesterday climbing on some of Chattanooga's finest river boulders. Brad and I both climbed a line called Damn Yankees (v9).


Afterwards, we were all psyched to go try a project. I'll just say it's not a project anymore! The crew took it down with three sends and decided on the name: Southern Slang (southern v11). The line is a crimpy roof with a difficult last move from a sloping crimper to a sloper/edge on the lip. Here is an old picture of me trying it:

After countless failed attempts, we decided to skip the bad lip hold and dyno to the jug about 8 inches higher. It worked and Brad sent for the FA. Nice work hommes! You have to really want this one as the dyno tends to cause a little pain. My arm afterwards was red and pretty swollen:

Then Jimmy decided to jump from boulder to boulder over the rushing water:

He barely made it back...

Also, we spent last Monday climbing rocks in Alabama the beautiful. I managed the second ascent of Jimmy's Mega Man (v11) and also a flash of Hustle and Flow (v10). Video should be up soon!

Yesterday I was extremely psyched to find a pair of 5.10 Yosemite Jeans at my door. If you are looking for a pair of comfortable jeans to climb in these are for you. Unlike most other jeans, they have some stretch and a wide enough leg to allow a good range of motion. I'm psyched to put them through some climbing days to see how they hold up.

That's all for now,

Brion

Saturday, January 23, 2010

So Ill Vid

Thanks to Jimmy here's a video from last weekend in Illinois. Enjoy:


Wednesday, January 20, 2010

Big Gulp

A couple days ago I got word, via Andy Salo on facebook, that Matt Bosley climbed a new problem on the Seven Eleven roof. Instead of exiting left after the opening crux, Big Gulp (v11) climbs through a couple massive moves directly to the lip. Jimmy and I were naturally syked to go check it out and second and third ascents were the result. Here's the vid:



-Brion

Tuesday, January 19, 2010

So Ill

We trucked North this weekend in honor of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. and found ourselves at the Holy Boulders in Southern Illinois. Turns out it was wet. We had a pretty epic day Saturday. It was a lot of drying boulders, slipping, and getting pissed.

It was nice though to spend time enjoying simple movement on easier climbs, to enjoy climbing for climbing's sake rather than for difficulty. I took some pictures as well but there is only 1 worth posting. Here's Nate Drolet climbing a beautiful v5 face (I don't know the name):



-Brion