Tuesday, November 30, 2010

Another Arkansas Weekend

So we spent Thanksgiving weekend in Arkansas. I can't even express the love I have for that place - it is by far my favorite climbing area. Life there is slow and uncomplicated; there is no cell service, no crowds, no rush, nothing at all except friends, rock climbing, farm animals, and the Ozark Cafe.

As far as climbing goes, I was really amped to give Wood Grain Grippin' (v14) some efforts this trip and so Jimmy and I made our way out there on day 1 to see what we could do. I learned that due to a tendon injury last year I couldn't grab the weird 3 finger undercling like everyone else - I have to get 4 fingers on it from the start. That means a much more difficult first move but a proportionally easier finish. Jimmy and I both had several near send attempts before he hurt his finger and I'm super psyched to return in December to try and finish it off.

In the mean time friends Hugh and Jacob were enjoying their introduction to Arkansas bouldering climbing on all the classics like Glass Bowl, Flash Gordon, Fred's Cave, Jeff's Prow, and Ab Lounge.

Anyway, Jimmy and I were able to finish the trip off right with sends of The Dirty 30 (v12). Here's a vid. of me climbing it:

Also, John Gass put together a vid. of me climbing the Whole Shebang a while back. Check it out:

Exams are coming up and I'm about to get super busy. But Hueco is also around the corner - we leave next Friday!



Wednesday, November 24, 2010

The Roof

Lately I've been super unmotivated in the gym. Problem is, between school, work, and crappy weather I don't have the time to get out much. But the semester is about done and I'll be heading to Hueco in two weeks! I've got some serious goals there including Esperanza, Slashface, and Nagual. In anticipation of climbing in the Martini cave, a bunch of us went up to Dayton on Sunday to climb on the roof. It had been a couple years since I last climbed on it and I was expecting to feel uncoordinated and week on such steep terrain. I did at first but after I got nice and warm the roof felt like an old friend. I was able to repeat a couple of the difficult lines including The Whole Shebang (v12) - a 29 move pump fest Ronnie and I spent a lot of time on a couple years ago. Weaver also killed it for the 4th ascent. We spent the rest of the day repeating classics.

We are heading back out to Arkansas this weekend. On the list are Wood Grain Grippin', Forever Botany, and Dirty 30. Very Psyched!

Happy Thanksgiving everyone,


Tuesday, November 16, 2010

Lost in the Hood and Weekend Recap

Ok, here are a couple videos from this weekend and one that's not. Props to Jimmy for the vids. Enjoy:

I can't even believe how this weekend went. We (Jimmy, Nate, Rami, and I) finally rolled down the hill into Horseshoe Canyon Ranch at midnight Friday after the 9 hour drive. It was raining.

When we woke up Saturday fog and clouds were lingering but boulders were dry - and it was finally cold! We decided to head up to try The Anti-Hero (v12) and after climbing Jeff's Prow (v9), made our way to the other side of the boulder. It felt hard! The second move for me is super bunchy and feels very violent and powerful. I wasn't even sure I could do it at first. I took a break and decided to try the boulder just to the left, Loved by Few Hated by Many (v12). It was a boulder I couldn't really touch last year. In a few tries though, I had worked it out and was able to send. It is one of my all time favorites. In the mean time Nate and Rami climbed Flash Gordon (v10) - Nate's old nemesis - and Jimmy climbed The Anti-Hero. I re-focused my attention and was able to climb to the last move on Anti-Hero before blowing it. But I had tried hard and was super tired. Jimmy and I wanted to get some attempts Wood Grain Grippin' (v14) before dark as well so we packed it up.

Wood Grain felt hard as well and after trying it for a bit neither Jimmy nor I was able to send. I broke the left start foot, making the first move a little more difficult. Jimmy and I were also having trouble keeping our foot on the next left foothold. The rock here is not the best and it seems that the key high left foot is crumbling a little. How well this one will stand the test of time seems in question (the finish jugs are thin as well) - I just hope to climb it before it becomes impossible.

I woke up Sunday morning sore but psyched to try and finish off the Anti-Hero. After a little work I was able to do so. Rami quickly finished Jeff's Prow as well and Nate was making good attempts on Loved by Few. But Nate and Rami were both psyched to go check out Fred's Cave and so that's what we did.

It was packed! There were probably about 20 people hanging out around the roof - I haven't ever seen 20 climbers in one spot in Arkansas. Anyway, Jimmy and I were just chillin' out waiting to go try Lost in the Hood (v14) and once it started cooling down we headed over.

The boulder was gross. There was some wet green slime and a bunch of mud in the right start hold. We did out best to clean it out but our expectations were low. I pulled on the wall and tried hard. Immediately I knew it was possible. I was expecting it every try and eventually I just did the move and took it to the top. It was an unbelievable feeling!

Then Monday before we left we went to check out a new line in Cowell called Off the Rails (v10). It turned out to be one of the nicest lines I've seen in Arkansas. Very good rock and very nice movement.

I guess that's it,


Tuesday, November 9, 2010

Horse Pens blog

I wrote a Horse Pens blog on the 5.10 site. Click here to read it. We are gonna be heading to Arkansas this weekend and I'm getting super excited. Stay tuned for that.


Wednesday, November 3, 2010


The Southeastern Climbers Coalition is a candidate to win a $250,000 in the Pepsi Refresh Project. All we need to do is vote - everyday.

Here is the link. Please help us out and give a vote for access in the Southeast. Even if you don't live in the Southeast, maybe you'll visit one day. VOTE!!!!!