Thursday, April 30, 2009

Stealth Paint

Check it out - new Stealth Paint!!! I can't wait to get my hands on this stuff! It's made of rubber left over from shoe construction and it can be painted on anywhere - like climbing shoe uppers or separated heel rands. This past season I had an especially difficult time with a specific heel-hook because the outside rand of my left heal was peeling off. I haven't tried it yet, but I think this stuff should solve the problem. Stealth Paint will also patch holes. And its cheap - you can get it on for 17 bucks! 

Anyway, I have to go study French for my exam tomorrow. Can't wait...


Monday, April 27, 2009

Finger Update

It's exam time! That's about all I've been doing for the past week - studying. School took a backseat to climbing in the winter and I have a little catching up to do. As far as my finger goes, nearly a month after injuring it I still can't weight it with more than a couple pounds. I have been climbing regularly (about 3 days a week) in the gym, doing easy boulder problems and traversing. My original enthusiasm towards pull-ups and cross training is now gone. The only thing that is keeping my psyched to train is the thought of my summer trip to RMNP. I leave in a month and I only have one wish, that my finger heals before that - I'm feeling optimistic about it. In other news, we finally found a place to sublet in boulder - a two bedroom paradise. Now I just have to make enough money to pay for it. Thats about it, I need to go study - exams start tomorrow.


Thursday, April 16, 2009

Pep Boys

I am beyond psyched! John Gass and I went out to Pep Boys today. Due to my tendon injury, it was the first time I'd been climbing outside in almost three weeks and I was still worried about weighting it. After warming up on some classic tall climbs my finger was feeling ok and I was psyched to try Salo's Roof (v10). In a surprising fashion I was able to flash the boulder. John gave a few solid tries but his skin wasn't holding up very well and he didn't manage the send.

I also tried the Gross Roof (v11) but the crux seemed to be matching a right hand crimp and my tendon wasn't having it- no send. I will definitely be back to finish off this one once my finger is feeling 100% again. John and I spent the rest of the day messing around on some easier climbs.

There seems to be some strange controversy surrounding this area and while I have the chance I'd like to get in my two cents worth. It seems that many locals are worried that this tiny area might be overrun by climbing noobs if the word get out. Truth is, despite the quality of the problems here, the location, parking difficulties, and a simple lack of boulder problems will prevent the "LRCization" of the area. No need to worry.


Sunday, April 12, 2009


My recent down time has left me some time to think about where I want to be headed in the next year or two and to set some specific goals for my climbing. I'm really going for it here:

1. Climb v14 (I have my eye on Esperanza and Ode to the Modern Man)
2. Flash The Mandala
3. Climb several longstanding Southern projects (Barn Door 2000)
4. Climb more indoor comps and make finals at the ABS Nationals
5. Lots of travel including RMNP, Bishop, Hueco, Joe's Valley, Arkansas, Southern Illinois, and the Northeast

That's about it, the rest I'll just make up on the fly.


Monday, April 6, 2009

I Lied

So I've got no pics but I did get out climbing yesterday. Nothing special and nothing too hard but we certainly clonked around in the woods for a while. And now that my legs have been through the blender with poison ivy and thorns I can offer another sound bit of advice: wear pants. The next couple of days are looking like premium climbing days and I'm really hoping that my finger feels well enough to get out. Can't wait.


Sunday, April 5, 2009

It's Official

I'll be moving back to Chattanooga this fall to finish up school at UTC. The last two years in Knoxville have been premium, I've met some fun people and done some amazing rock climbs but most importantly I've gained some perspective about climbing and about life. I learned, for example, that compromising or postponing a lifelong dream is as good as writing it off. In climbing and in other things, later is as good as never. I also learned more specific things like holding a big swing is easier if you can concentrate on pulling up just before or as you release. Ronnie and I are heading out in the morning to try and climb some big new boulders. This will be my first time climbing in a week and I hope my finger holds up.


Saturday, April 4, 2009


Its been 6 days since I hurt my finger and it's feeling much better but I'm still extremely nervous climbing on it. So I have been focusing on other stuff like school and tv and searching for new boulders. Yesterday I was bored and so I found myself wandering down the side of Lookout Mountain in search of good, tall, hard, boulder problems. I found a few and snapped some pics but these are only the tip of the iceberg.

The photos don't do justice to the height and quality of these boulders. These blocs are amazing and i'm psyched to try them once my finger heals up a bit more.