Tuesday, March 31, 2009


     Last Sunday (the 29th) I drove down to the Citadel to try and climb The Main Event (v12). The weather was not perfect, it was sprinkling rain and the humidity was high, but the rock was dry and I was determined to give it a good try. The Main Event starts on two good crimpers under a roof. After a long move to a miserable left hand crimper (now sporting two layers of spray paint), a high right foot, and a big double handed move to the top slopers, you have to hold a big swing. I managed to fall twice after failing to hold this swing. I was so psyched! Unfortunately, my excitement about the possibility of ticking the last problem on my list caused my worst climbing related injury to date. After a couple more failed attempts I felt a pop in my right ring finger. Instant pain. I immediately knew there would be no send, no more climbing today, and possibly no climbing for a while. "Shit!"
     I have put a couple of hours of research into it now and from what I understand I have a flexor unit strain. These injuries occur most commonly in the ring finger, and then most often while gripping holds with three fingers in the open-handed position (as I was). A flexor unit strain is a strain to a flexor tendon, not a pulley, and, in comparison to pulley injuries, there is little literature on the subject. The best source I've found is an article by Dave MacLeod. In it Dave provides some criteria for self-diagnosis of finger injuries as well as treatments for them. Here is a link to article: Finger Injuries.
     Right now I am just laying low, doing lots of abs, pull-ups, push-ups, running, and working out in the gym. I'm going to give my finger a week or two and go from there. If you have any advice about or experience with finger injuries I would love to hear it.

Trying to stay positive,


Wednesday, March 25, 2009

Sunday, March 22, 2009

Boone (again)

     So I just got back from Boone, NC tonight. The last two days there were amazing, good temps, sunny skies, lots of laughs, and climbing. Friday the three of us headed back to Lost Cove so that Nate could try Black 45. No dice, maybe next time. Afterwards, we headed to Sasafrass to try Twice Upon A Time (v10). The line climbs a beautiful roof for about 25 feet and finishes with a dyno. I was amazed at the beauty and purity of the line and was incredibly happy with my quick ascent. Then it was on to Area E where we all climbed an amazing arĂȘte called The Flame (v7). I also managed The Tosser (v9) and a flash of Temporal Analogs of Paradise (v9).

Jon on Temporal Analogs of Paradise

     The next day we headed out to The Dump with the intent of doing The Breakup (v9) and Bedophile sit (v10). After the beta spray-down I was able to flash the route-like Breakup. I struggled with a back heel-hook on Bedophile, eventually turned it to a toe and was able to send fairly quickly. For me, this was the end, time to pack up and get out.
     The trip was a success, I managed to do nearly every problem on my list and many of the best problems in the North Carolina high country. Admittedly, there were no massive numbers but the goal is never numbers, always quality. Until next time...


Thursday, March 19, 2009


     For the past couple of days I have been chillin' in Boone, NC with Jon Glassberg and Nate Draughn trying to escape the springtime heat and humidity. I haven't been too successful in that regard, it's been a tad warm. 
     On Tuesday Nate and I headed out to Lost Cove to finish up a problem there called the Black 45 (v10). It's a typical North Carolina roof climb, the crux revolves around a small, very sharp crimper. I managed to send fairly quickly despite the heat. Nate came up just short but will hopefully be able to finish it off quick. Afterwards we drove over to Blowing Rock and Nate gave me the tour. I was psyched to try the classic roof climb Flagyl (v10). Despite the heat I managed the send and was psyched! I also managed to do a slopey v8 to the left of Flagyl called AHR (Another Henson Route). Nate easily repeated a couple of v8s for the video. Here it is:

AHR (V8), Flagyl (V10), and Thresh Weasel (V8)

     Nate on Flagyl

     Wednesday was even warmer than Tuesday. Nate, Jon and I decided to head up to Grandmother Mtn. and mess around on some easier classics. Of course, that's not exactly what happened. After warming up, Nate and I tried Third Rail (v8) a problem I'd been wanting to do for several years. Turns out this one is extremely difficult when its 60 degrees, humid, and damp. After way too much effort and much frustration I sent. While I recovered Nate and Jon climbed a couple of moderate highballs and added a sit start to one of them. Then we headed over to the Great Roof, a tall roof housing several difficult problems. The goal was to film Jon climbing his problem The Masochist (v10). The Masochist climbs the tallest part of the roof through a series big moves on incut crimps. 

Jon enjoying The Masochist

     After a couple of tries Jon managed the repeat and his success inspired me to try. I sent fourth go for the fourth ascent. The sun was sagging low but I was still psyched. We decided to go try Instinct sit (v10). Jon repeated the problem for video and I quickly followed. It was a great finish to a fine day.


Monday, March 9, 2009

The Best of the Best

Me climbing Lord of the Dance
     The Southeast is home to some of the best sandstone in the country. But with hundreds of boulders and thousands of problems to choose from, which ones are worth climbing? With complete disregard to grade, I've put together a list of my top 25 favorite boulders in the Southeast:

1. The Shield (v12) - Little Rock City
2. Western Gold (v11) - Laurel Snow
3. Golden Harvest (v10) - Rocktown
4. Mortal Combat (v4) - Horse Pens 40
5. Space (v8) - Little Rock City
6. God Module (v11) - Horse Pens 40
7. The Vagina (v7/8) - Rocktown
8. Risk (v7/8) - Laurel Snow
9. Slider (v9) - Horse Pens 40
10. Lord of the Dance (v11) - Laurel Snow
11. The Orb (v8) - Rocktown
12. Mousetrap (v2) - Little Rock City
13. The Scoop (v2) - Rocktown
14. Balls Deep (v11) - Laurel Snow
15. IncredarĂȘte (v2) - Little Rock City
16. Earth, Wind, and Fire (v4) - Horse Pens 40
17. Millipede (v5) - Horse Pens 40
18. The Wave (v6) - Little Rock City
19. Vaporlock (v11) - Laurel Snow
20. Genesis (v3) - Horse Pens 40
21. The Comet (v7) - Rocktown
22. Genghis Kahn (v5) - Little Rock City
23. Mystery Groove (v4) - Little Rock City
24. Tri-star (v4) - Little Rock City
25. The Hulk (v6) - Little Rock City


Sunday, March 8, 2009

The Climbing Whore

     I suppose it is time for me to join the growing climber/blogger scene. I am now officially a climbing whore. Hope you enjoy my goodies.