Tuesday, October 27, 2009

LRC Projects

Jimmy and I have been trying some projects lately; haven't done any, but have tried many. The coolest of them climbs right of the v7 Tennessee Thong. From that problem's start you move left hand to the first good edge and bump right hand out to a micro edge just under the first tier of the roof. Perching on your right foot, your left hand floats up to another micro edge just above the second tier. The next move is quite a large, difficult move to a sloping pinch on the right arete. From there it's probably v6 to the top. Check it out if you are in the area and psyched on some small holds!

There is also an amazing slab project across from the v2 crack Mouse Trap still awaiting an ascent. So far, I have put three days into this one and have made absolutely no progress. I'm not even sure if this one goes but it is one of the most beautiful and distinct lines at LRC.

If you know anything at all about LRC projects you are probably wondering about the Barn Door Project. Well it's still a project. I'm super psyched to start trying this one once the temps drop a little more.

Oh, and here is a vid jimmy put together of me climbing The Power of Amida (v10) yesterday. Thanks buddy.



Sunday, October 25, 2009

Arkansas and Horse Pens Pics

Yesterday Jimmy, Kasia, Nate, Jo Beth and I were at Horse Pens. I hadn't been there is over a year and I was psyched to check out some stuff. After a warm up I was able to climb Odd Job, a tough little v8. Check Jimmy's video:

After watching Nate and Kasia on The Flow for a bit Jimmy and I were psyched to give some efforts on Genetic, the unrepeated James Litz v10. It remains unrepeated but we both came quite close. Since its first ascent, this one move boulder has been bumped to v11 but Jimmy and I agree that it may be even harder. Here are a few photos of us trying:

And here is one of Kasia on The Flow:

Jimmy and I also climbed Balrog (v10) and I was able to do Hot n Tot (v10) also. We finished up the day trying a cool project that traverses into Stingray (v9) from the right and may weigh in at around v11.

As promised, here are some pics from our trip to Arkansas last week.

Jimmy on Buddy

Jimmy on The Zone

Kasia on Fred's Cave

Me on 1 Inch Pinch

That's all for now,


Friday, October 23, 2009


So Arkansas was cool. Lots of climbing and a couple days of good weather. We spent the first day at Fred's Cave where Jimmy and I quickly did Buddy (v10). I was also able to do Chunk Up the Deuce (v12) and Jimmy finished off One Inch Pinch (v12). I tried One Inch Pinch and fell off the last move about 5 times ripping flappers on my left index and middle fingers. The next morning I woke up to stinging skin and decided to take it easy. The same day Nate and Kasia both completed Numerical Methods (v8) a cool arete on amazing rock.

My skin was still hurting the next day when we headed out for the Zone (v12). After 2 hours spent stomping down the Arkansas wilderness Jimmy and I finally found the problem. Jimmy was psyched, me, not so much. I think my morning redbull was wearing off. Anyway, after trying to warm up and climbing a v7 roof climb I decided to call it. Jimmy crushed the Zone, a power boulder that must have been made for him, and we hiked back to the ranch. Check the vid:

My skin was feeling slightly better the next morning. On our way out of town we decided to swing by Fred's Cave so I could try to finish off One Inch Pinch. No dice. The morning air was humid and I couldn't manage the send. Can't wait to go back and complete this one. The same day Jimmy and I did a cool line called Center Spooge (v10) which climbs the center of a tall face at Fontain Red. The boulder was a bit contrived and I think a little soft for v10 but it climbs well and it's very prominent. I was also able to do Fred's Cave which people still call v11. After falling off the last move on the flash and finishing second go, I would say v10 is more appropriate. Jimmy also did the PCP traverse and a line called Broken Earth. Meanwhile my skin failed completely.

I have a lot to get back to in Arkansas. One Inch Pinch, The Zone, Anti-hero, Loved By Few Hated by Many, and Glass Bowl are at the top of my list. I also have some photos from the trip to post later this week.



Wednesday, October 14, 2009

More Rain, More Training

It's training time in Chattanooga a.k.a. it's raining again. It's been raining all week, and I've spent a lot of time indoors training. Since I'm always interested in how other climbers train, I thought it might be interesting to post my recent training regimen. I am by no means an expert on the subject so feel free to make comments and suggestions. Also, training for climbing is still quite a new concept and we could all really use feedback.

1. Running - Nothing too serious here. I have been doing 30 minutes or 3.5 miles which ever comes first. I like to keep the pace slow and steady for a long period of time to get my heart rate up without building leg muscle.
Frequency: every other day, 3 times a week.

2. Stretching - Definitely an area I don't know much about. I usually just do a little bit of everything but nothing in particular. Any suggestions?
Frequency: every day.

3. Hangs - I like to do about 20 minutes a day. 3 8-12 second hangs per hold type (ex. small pinches, wide pinches, small crimps, big crimps, slopers) and usually in the range of 5-7 hold types. 1 minute timed rests between hangs. I think it's important to pick holds you typically struggle with. For instance, if you are better at crimps, concentrate on slopers or pinches. Be sure to take this into account when purchasing a hangboard or other training devices. I just got a new one, the Etch Motherboard, check it out:

Frequency: every day.

4. Ab Ripper X - Look it up on Google videos. 11 sets, 25 reps, 16 minutes - the ultimate ab workout.
Frequency: every other day.

5. Bouldering for power - The fun stuff. I typically do a couple hours of power intensive bouldering whenever my body is feeling up to it. Again, I don't have a prescribed amount and sometimes I get carried away. I've found that the amount of power training you do simply depends on how you feel.
Frequency: whenever it suits me.

6. Endurance - Again, I am definitely not an expert. The frequency and intensity of an endurance workout, for me at least, differs from day to day. Because I'm not crazy about getting mad pumped, this has always been a difficult area for me to find motivation to train. I've found that endurance comes quickly when I'm psyched on a route or long boulder outside. Also, excess power seems to make up for a lack of endurance.
Frequency: whenever it suits me.

7. Upper Body - I have recently started doing a little more upper body work. After tearing his ACL, Ronnie Jenkins and I have been doing a pull up intensive workout that makes you wish you were dead. Start with 3 sets of 12 pull ups, resting only long enough for a partner to go. Continue with 3 sets of 3 frenchies. 1 frenchie is actually a set of 3 full pull ups... pull up, hold at full lock off for 5 sec., lower, pull up, lower until your arms are bent at 90 degrees, hold for 5 sec., lower, pull up, lower until your arms are only slightly bent, hold for 5 sec., lower. We continue with 3 sets of 1 one-arm frenchies (hold each position for 2 seconds). Then its L-hangs. We have been doing 3 sets of 3 pull-ups while holding the L-hang position and waiting 8 seconds between pulls. That's a total of 3 pull ups and 40 seconds in the L-hang position. And if we aren't completely dead by then, 3 sets of 5 second front levers finishes the job.
Frequency: every other day.

In other news, I'm on fall break now and Jimmy, Kasia, Nate, and I are heading to Arkansas this weekend to get out of the rain. It's a new area with new boulders and I am psyched! The weather looks bomber too! Check back next week for an update on that one.


Tuesday, October 6, 2009

New Pictures

Here are some pictures from the last week or so:

Running Train on Incredarete (v2) at LRC

Nate Drolet on Celestial Mechanics (v7)

Kasia on the Wave (v6)

John on Room With A View (v10)

John on Room With A View

Jason Cassel on Chapter 13 (v7/8)


Monday, October 5, 2009

Hound Ears

The Triple Crown Bouldering Series kicked off this weekend at Hound Ears and, as always, it attracted quite a crowd. Tents and cars were already packed into the Grandfather Mountain Campground when we rolled in at 6 p.m. It was drizzling rain and after experiencing some disappointing weather in the past, I was worried. But the sky cleared, the boulders dried, and Saturday was one of the most beautiful days I've seen there.

After the quick morning bus ride, warm-up hike, and a small amount of scheming, 10 boulder problems didn't seem like such a difficult goal. Now, if I could just get warmed up... Warming up in a boulder field with hundreds of other excited competitors is nearly impossible though. Instead, I jumped in line behind Phil Schaal, Dave Wetmore, Jimmy Webb, and Max Zolotukhin on the traditional first problem of the open circuit, Mr. Thick. Then it was on to Pit bull, The Crusher, a project, Stupid Human, Rapid Fire, The Blunted extended start, Pimp Trick Gangsta Click, The Brady Problem, Oral Resume, and The Tourist.

Unexpectedly, I was able to climb a project which starts on The Crusher, a classic v10, and climbs left into Flash or Trash (v5). It took a few efforts and after some deliberation I chose to name it 1/2 Price Pornos. As for the grade, I think it's somewhere in the v11 range.

1/2 Price Pornos

The rest of the day was smooth sailing and I enjoyed climbing with good friends Jimmy Webb and John Gass. As always though, the best part is the end, sitting with friends, totaling your score, joking, eating.

By the end of it all I found myself in second place, in front of Max Zolotukhin and behind Jimmy Webb. Good job fellas!

Oh, and the after party didn't disappoint either!



Friday, October 2, 2009

We Made It

Summer has finally ended. In a single day temps dropped almost 20 degrees, setting us up for some fun first days outside. On Monday, Jimmy and I did an advanced circuit at Little Rock City. Check out the video he put together.

Tuesday I was psyched to go out to Pep Boys/Cumberland to climb a problem called Gross's Roof (v11). I first saw this problem last spring but a finger injury prevented me from actually trying it. This time it went quickly. Jimmy put together a video of the send.

Also, check out Colorado Glow a video featuring many friends: Jon glassberg, Nate Draughn, Ryan Olson, Carlo Traversi, and Alex Puccio. The full video should be availible October 15 but here is a short teaser.

I guess that's all for now,