Saturday, December 25, 2010

Slashface vid

Merry Christmas!

I haven't been climbing for a week. My finger is still messed up but the swelling seems to have subsided and it hurts a little less. I've decided to return to training in an attempt to get fit and heal my finger before it gets warm again. My remaining goal for the year is to finish Wood Grain Grippin' and I figure February will be the month.

I also edited the small amount of useful footage I got in Hueco. This is my first official video and I know it's not perfect but I hope you enjoy it!


Wednesday, December 22, 2010

Five Ten: Brand of the Brave

Check out this Five Ten ad! Thanks to Andrew Kornylak I'm in it at 0:22.

Merry Christmas everyone,


Sunday, December 19, 2010

Hueco 3

So I got super close on Nagual the other day - I fell from the end twice. Then I tweaked my pinkie finger... It didn't hurt at all and at first I thought it was just my knuckle cracking. It wasn't until I tried to weight it again that I realized something was actually wrong. Now it feels swollen but doesn't look it, and I can't crimp at all - not a good thing in Hueco. I can grab open-hand holds and I still have full range of motion but I'm super bummed that I'm not going to be able to finish Nagual or anything else this trip.

Before I hurt myself though I managed to finish Slashface and I'm happy about that. I took some shots of Brad trying it. Here's one:

I was also able to climb The Flame (v11), The Egg (v8), and Loaded Direct (v11 or 12?). Now I'll be taking some time off and I'm happy to be going home for Christmas on Tuesday. Good food and fun await. I'm also gonna be working on editing footage from the trip.

Until next time,


Wednesday, December 15, 2010

Hueco 2

Went out yesterday to East Spur to try Nagual (v13). It was way harder than I expected but I was able to do all the moves and make a couple good links - I'll be back to finish this one as well. We also tried Coeur de Leon (v12/13) and thanks to Brian A. and some clutch beta it will definitely go. Brad was able to finish off Full Monty (v12) and I got some good shots. Here's one:

I'm feeling super close on everything but so far I've been unable to actually send anything. We're headed out to East tomorrow and hopefully I'll be able to finish Slashface.

See ya out there,


Monday, December 13, 2010

Hueco 1

Days 1 and 2 of Hueco 2010 are in the books. On day 1 Brad Weaver and I went up to try Bleeding Brothers (v12). The boulder revolves around these toe-hooks in a huge hueco. I don't know whether it's my height or if I'm just not strong enough, but I couldn't make it work. I was able to figure out some other crazy beta though and after a couple hours I was able to put it together. I captured the send on my new camera as well but you're gonna have to wait to see it. Brad was close but the boulder is super spread and he looked like he was strung out on a medieval torture device. We also tried Esperanza (v14) and I was able to do all the moves and make a couple good links - I'll be back.

Then yesterday we got out to East Mountain to try Slashface (v13). I got super close and I'm looking forward to getting back and finishing it off. Brad and Jimmy were both psyched on Full Throttle (v13) - a boulder I was lucky enough to climb on our last trip - and both were doing really well. Here's a picture I took of Jimmy on it:

We are heading out to the East Spur tomorrow to try Nagual (v13).

See ya out there,


Wednesday, December 8, 2010

Chimney Rock State Park and Rumbling Bald Boulders

Some information has made it's way to me via Nate Draughn about access at Rumbling bald. Here is the official memo:

The North Carolina Department of Environment and Natural Resources recently released a draft of the Chimney Rock State Park Master Plan for public comment until December 13. The draft plan is available online at

Chimney Rock State Park includes the classic Rumbling Bald cliffline and boulderfield. In additionaly the park includes or is slated to include several lesser-known, high quality cliffs such as Ghost Town, the north side of Rumbling Balk, Eagle Rock, Cloven Cliffs, and the cliffs of the Chimney Rock attraction. Some of these outlying areas have 20+ years of climbing history.

The Chimney Rock State Park Master Plan will guide land management in the park over the next 20 years. Currently this plan makes misguided statements about the impacts of climbing and endangers the future of climbing in Hickory Nut Gorge.

The Carolina Climbers' Coalition and the Access Fund are working together to provide key comments regarding climbing access and management. Help ensure climbers' voices are heard. Urge park planners to protect current and future climbing access in Chimney Rock State Park by visiting the Access Fund website and using their letter-writing tool.

The park planners need to hear you thoughts today.

If you are willing, just take a second and help out the Carolina Climbers' Coalition and climbers across the Southeast who use the facilities at Chimney Rock State Park.



Sunday, December 5, 2010

Triple Crown, Stone Fort/LRC

Saturday, with rain clouds overhead, 400 climbers filed onto buses in order to compete in the final leg of the Triple Crown. 20 minutes later as the buses rolled to a stop in front of Montlake Golf Club the rain was already beginning to fall. I was feeling super rushed and my first 5 times off the ground I climbed Brian's Bain (v1), Dragon Lady (v4), Tri-star (v4), Dragon Man (v9), and The Law (v11). But the rain calmed down and so did I.

I moved toward the back of the field and climbed The Shield (v11), Biggie Shorty Extension (v12) and New Sensations (v10). At this point a crazy cloud moved in and a misty rain began to fall. Everything became super difficult and I began failing. I couldn't climb Electric Boogaloo (v10), The Chattanoogan (v12), Reflections (v10), or I Think I Can (v9). At this point I had holes in two fingers and a split in one - a consequence of trying to climb on wet crimpers. I needed some good holds and so I moved over to do Robbin' the Tooth Fairy (v9) and Blind Spot (v7). At this point it was downright soaked but I managed to eek out sends of both boulders. Deeming it too dangerous to continue, judges began herding competitors toward the buses. It was over and I was glad. All in all, I had a great time climbing with Ronnie and hanging out with a bunch of fun people. I even placed 2nd in both LRC and overall! Check out the Triple Crown results page for the full results.

I leave for Hueco Friday and until then I'll be studying for exams. Also, thanks to everyone at Triple Crown for all your hard work.