Saturday, May 29, 2010


Jimmy and I hiked up to Chaos yesterday to check the condition of a few boulders. Turns out things are looking up. In lower Chaos the v10 Marble is climbable and the sit start, Centaur, would be as well with an hour or so of digging. With a little work the problems to the right, Handicapps and Gangbang, would be climbable as well. Jimmy and I spent about an hour and a half digging on The Automator and with a little more work it will be climbable along with Tommy's Arete.

We continued up to Middle Chaos to check out Top Notch (v13) and we arrived to find it completely buried in snow. Bummer...

Not to be discouraged we broke out the shovel and started digging toward the distant, but visible, start holds. Three hours later a spiral staircase fell into a 12 foot pit surrounding the boulder and we were booting up to try the thing. We didn't have a camera but we snapped a couple photos of the hole with my phone:

After nearly climbing the boulder about 20 times last year, Jimmy destroyed it second try from the bottom and after not being able to do the moves last year I fell three times from the last one. I was very happy to see the progression.

Afterwards, we headed up to the Green 45 to try Jade... But it was too hot so we focused some attention on Don't Get Too Greedy (v13). After falling several times from the final move Jimmy managed to eek out a send and I, for the second time in a day, punted from the last move about 5 times. It was a fun day, one of the best in a while. I can't wait to get back and finish the two of these off.


Thursday, May 27, 2010

CO Vid

Here's the second installment from Colorado. In order of appearance it features Stinkbug (v10), Whispers of Wisdom (v10), Storm Shadow sit (v11) and Hi-Fi (v11). Enjoy...

Wednesday, May 26, 2010


I had forgotten how incredible Rock Mountain National Park really is. The snow, the scenery, the wildlife, and the climbing combine in a way only the Power Rangers and Planeteers have done on early morning television. Spending the past couple days climbing at Emerald Lake have jogged my memory though and we have been having quite a fun time up in the mountains. Yesterday for example I witnessed an EPIC BATTLE between two climbers, Nathan Drolet and John Gass, and the compression problem Storm Shadow (v10). For hours both climbers fought to defeat the boulder but unfortunately their advances were repelled. Here are some photos:

As for me, I climbed the Storm Shadow sit start (v11) which adds two hard moves into the v10. Video to come.


Wednesday, May 19, 2010

Clear Creek Canyon

Went to Clear Creek yesterday afternoon to try Echale (v13/14). It was stupid hot and the thing felt hard. Instead we focused on climbing some classics: North Shore (v9) and Animal (v9). I was able to climb both on my first attempt. Here is a cool photo I took of Nate on Animal:

It's really warming up here, hopefully alpine areas will be climbable soon...


Tuesday, May 18, 2010

Black Ice

It was hot yesterday afternoon as Nate, Jimmy and I made the hike to Black Ice (v10). Our directions were poor as well and we spent the majority of the 50 minute hike wondering if we were even headed in the right direction. I thought it might be helpful therefore to post more specific directions.

From the intersection of Broadway St. and Table Mesa Dr.:
1. Continue up Table Mesa Dr.
2. Turn L on Lehigh St.
3. Turn R on Cragmoor Rd.
4. Park in the Cul-de-sac at the top Cragmoor Rd.
5. Directly out of the car the trail forks
6. From first fork go R
7. The tail forks several more times
8. In order of appearance turn R, R, Farthest R, L, L, R
9. The boulder is an obvious roof to the left of the trail just right of a bolted red arete.

Anyway, we eventually found the boulder. A nice stream was running over the landing and we spent another thirty minutes or so piling rocks and branches across it. I put on my shoes and for the second time began the painful process of warming up on a v10 (maybe this is why my pulley is bothering me). 4 tries later, and still not warm, I was on top. I've heard a lot about this boulder in the past and I now I agree, Black Ice is one of the best boulders of the grade in Colorado. Jimmy also quickly dispatched and Nate came desperately close. Another fun day. Here's a shot:


Sunday, May 16, 2010

Recent Activity

I've played about 20 hours of Xbox this past week. All I have to say is that Call of Duty Modern Warfare 2 is the bomb!

Spring rains have kept us cooped up in the house playing video games but between showers we have continued our exploration of Colorado's front range bouldering.

A couple days ago we visited Newlin Creek for the first time. Unfortunately the area was shrouded in thick clouds spiting rain/snow/mist. After the two hour drive from Denver though we were determined to see a boulder at the very least. Newlin is a fairly secluded area with boulders nestled between tall trees and steep canyon walls. The warm up was unusually difficult and I found myself missing comfortable LRC jugs. Eventually I found myself warm and at the top of a cool arete climb called The Nickness (v10), a must do for any Newlin goer with the gumption. Around the boulder is William Shatner which climbs a series of sidepulls to a highball topout. It took a minute but I got the boulder done and so did Jimmy. Mission accomplished! We have video but have been having some trouble getting it onto a computer for editing. Hopefully we'll have it all sorted out soon.

We also got up to Boulder Canyon to try Free Range (v13) the sit start to Cage Free. After a few tries I was convinced it would go but the sun, which hadn't made an appearance in days, was blasting the boulder. It wasn't long before the holds were baked and my skin was hurting. If we get some better temps I'll be back to finish this one off. We also tried Authentic Battle Damage (v12) an ultra compression roof line. I don't think I've ever tried a boulder more outside my style and I was shut down. Jimmy did it though in trademark random style.

Tomorrow we are going to be heading out to try the classic Black Ice (v10). Stay tuned.


Monday, May 10, 2010


It's been nonstop since we rolled in. I've only had one day of rest in the last seven. But stuff has been going down left and right. Jimmy and I both had great days at Poudre Canyon Saturday repeating nearly every difficult boulder at the 420s. After a quick warm up we quickly dispatched the surprisingly difficult Canopener (v11). It was fun and powerful despite the slightly damp holds. Circadian Rhythm (v13) on the backside was feeling too wet to try so we moved on over to the Sharma Lunge (v9) a cool, very height dependent one move boulder which Jimmy and I both flashed. To left of Sharma Lunge is Chris Schulte's line What's Left of the Bottom of My Heart (v12). The boulder revolves around a difficult first move and then more compression leading to a jug at the lip. After a quick beta session and some real try hard Jimmy and I both sent the boulder. We chilled for a bit waiting for Circadian to dry up a bit and in the mean time Nate sent a cool boulder called Tilt (v9). Then amazingly, Jimmy and I both made quick ascents of Circadian. I had to figure out some different beta due to my height and the length of my appendages but I made it work in the end. One of the best days of my life! Check the vid:

That's all for now.


Friday, May 7, 2010


Just got back from Joe's last night. We only spent three days in Utah but I managed to put together a pretty good list of boulders:

1. Two Finger Variation (v9)
2. Resident Evil (v10) FLASH
3. Ghost King (v10)
4. The Angler (v1)
5. Big Joe left (v11)
6. Worm Turns (v10)
7. They Call Him Michael (v8)
8. Wills of Fire (v6)
9. Playmate of the Year (v9)
10. Battletoads (v10)
11. Man From the Past (v11)

Unfortunately we couldn't make it across the river to try the Masterpiece (v13) but this one is high on my lifetime list and I'll be returning for it. Jimmy and I also tried Black Lung (v13) with no success. Here are a couple photos and there should be a little footage soon as well.

Big Joe left

Playmate of the Year

Worm Turns


Sunday, May 2, 2010

Joe's Valley

I am very psyched! Jimmy, Nate, and I are leaving tomorrow for Joe's Valley. Joe's has been at the top of my list of places to visit for a while. Things that have me psyched are Black Lung, The Masterpiece, and pretty much every other boulder seeing as I've never touched any of them. After 7 weeks climbing inside, I can't wait to climb on real rock again!

The quick excursion to Joe's precedes a three month stint in Colorado. I will be climbing everything in sight and obviously, there will be much more to come.