Sunday, February 28, 2010

Moss Rock

Jimmy, Kasia, Jo Beth I drove to Birmingham, AL yesterday to compete in the annual Moss Rock competition. Really we were just looking for a good time and some new boulders. We found both.

After a warm up on some really cool easy highballs, I hopped right on the hardest boulder in the field - Reignition sit (v10). The line follows a series of cool slopers and edges out a steep roof to a fun topout (4 stars). It went pretty quick and Jimmy and I moved on to flash roof's other line, the Godfather (v10). Then we got psyched on a project starting on Reignition and climbing through a huge move and a couple toe hooks. Jimmy sent for the first and I followed up quickly. The name: Out of Touch (v10). Other highlights included the classic highball Serenity Now (v7) and the powerful Beef It direct (v9).

It was really a fun time - met some new people, climbed some new boulders, and made a little money. Thanks to the locals for beta and for making this comp a great time. Also, thanks to Adam Henry for organizing the whole thing!



Friday, February 26, 2010


Jimmy and I drove down to Alabama because I wanted to finish off the super sloppy Skeletor (v10). We had also heard rumors of a hard project at Steele, AL and were psyched to go check it out.

After a little work I sent Skeletor and we were off to check out the proj. Turns out the thing is impossible. It start on low on a left-facing edge with zero feet climbs up and left on a very bad flexing edge to a sloppy undercling. Climbing from the undercling is possible though, and my be in the v9 range. Anyway, we made the most of the trip and climbed a cool, very frightening v7 called Reconciliation. We also added a new line to the left of Reconciliation traversing low on some edges and up to the arete. This place really does have some potential for bouldering though obviously routes are the main attraction. Here's the vid:

Also, the Shades Crest comp is tomorrow, come on out. I'll be there climbing and demoing 5.10 shoes.



Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Cold and Damp

It was supposed to be sunny yesterday. It wasn't. It was supposed to snow today. It hasn't. Moral of the story - February weather here has been unpredictable. As a result, many of our climbing days have been less than ideal.

Yesterday was just one of those cold, cloudy, damp days that kill motivation, wreck skin, and keep you shivering. Jimmy and I were at LRC hoping to finally climb the Tall Tee project. After a few goes though, it was obviously not happening. Conditions for this thing have to be perfect, skin has to be perfect and climbing needs to be flawless. Yesterday was just not the day. I'm excited though. This boulder is an entirely new level for us and, I think, a new level for bouldering in the Southeast. In terms of single difficult moves, this one may be equal to the crux move on Jade. Of course the climbing after this move isn't as difficult as Jade's v11 exit but it's interesting to think about.

Anyway, after our failed attempts at Tall Tee we got psyched to try another 1 move project (we think) just behind Diesel Power. The problem starts on two small edges with a smearish foot out right. Then a hard deadpoint to a slot leads to easier climbing. I ended up sending for the 1st and I decided to name it Disparate Impact (v10). Here's a photo of Jimmy trying it:

Afterwards we got psyched and decided to go looking for a problem called Immortal Technique (v9). We found it eventually and Jimmy and I sent quickly. Here's a quick video Jimmy put together of me climbing it:

I also took some photos of Nathan Drolet climbing on it. Here is my favorite:

I guess that's all for now,


Sunday, February 21, 2010

The Bosnian

So today I went out with the fellas to try the Bosnian (v10). I was psyched to make quick work of it and Jimmy barely got the send on camera. Here's the footy:

Wednesday, February 17, 2010


I haven't been posting lately because there hasn't been much going on. Rain and snow have severely limited the amount of time spent outdoors the past few weeks and so I've been training at home and indoors at TBA with the usual suspects. To catch you up:

1. The video Jimmy, Brad and I shot a few weeks ago with Brant Hawkins is up on Deadpoint. Check it out here.

2. I had a rough time at ABS Nationals last weekend and I would rather not dwell on the details. Suffice it to say I was quite disappointed in my performance. At least the 10 hour drive to Virgina was not a complete waste; we were able to sample the food, see some sights, and hang out with friends.

3. Today we took advantage of a rare sunny day and drove up to Dayton. I was able to climb Matt Bosley's Power Patches low (v11) for its 3rd ascent and Jimmy's Oreo (v9) for a 2nd. Jimmy climbed a new one he named Hippie Funeral (v10) plus one of mine, HSR extension (v8). Good day!

4. March is just around the corner. That means the season here in the Southeast is winding down. It also means time for Spring Break! We will be leaving March 5th for Bishop. I feel strong right now and my expectations for the trip are high, but I'm also looking forward to visiting a new area and climbing on new boulders.

5. The Shadescrest Showdown is coming up this Saturday February 27th. Check out the comp details here.

6. Seen the video of Daniel Woods talking about the Sportiva Solutions? Well, he forgot to mention that the Team 5.10's do everything the Solutions do, only better. Plus they're blue.

That's all,