Sunday, December 27, 2009

LRC Today, HP40 Tomorrow

That's right folks, been at LRC today enjoying the perfect winter temps. I quickly dispatched Reflections (v10), a boulder I would not exactly suggest, and moved on to the projects. Tall Tee in particular had me psyched and Jimmy and I both had our best goes yet - hit the hold, stick, foot cut, hold for an instant, fail. Neither of us managed it though and after 4 or 5 days of effort on the single move without success I would say that this one might be the hardest in the South. I think it will go though - today I saw the light!

We moved on to a cool dyno project which king of dynos climbed quickly and which I would love to go back and try. It has a scary landing on a boulder which may have discouraged others but it wasn't half bad. In the end we decided to call it Watch Your Back. As for the grade, somewheres in the v11 range seems good. Nice work Jimmy!


Yeah, so LRC today and tomorrow headin' to the Pens. Mostly syked on Genetic, Landslide, and Skeletor. I'll let ya know how it goes.


Saturday, December 26, 2009

Trip Footage

Here are a couple videos of our recent trip to AR and TX - thanks jimmy.

- Brion

Wednesday, December 23, 2009

Home for the Holidays

I'm back in Chattanooga for a few days spending Christmas with family. I'm not sure what my plans are afterwards but I think a return trip to Arkansas may be in order. Top of my list there are Lost in the Hood, Wood Grain Grippin', Loved by Few Hated by Many, and the Zone.

As for the end of my Hueco trip, I finished Full Throttle. Being mostly pinches and compression I would not consider this problem in my style and completing it, I feel I've reached a new level. This problem also highlighted a slight shift in my climbing style from fingery crimp problems to power and compression. Don't get me wrong, I still love a good crimp line but I feel that I'm a more well-rounded climber. This is one reason I love returning to Hueco every season - it allows me to measure progress and changes in my climbing which I may not have noticed otherwise. I can't wait to get back to try Esperanza (v14), which I made some good links on, and Slashface (v13).

That being said, here are a few photos from the past week. Still to come is footage of Diabolique, El Techo, One Inch Pinch and a bunch of others.

Getting into the business on Diabolique


Jimmy on the last move of Diabolique

John climbing See Spot Run


Sunday, December 20, 2009

Trip Report

So I have been on the road for the past couple weeks. First it was Arkansas and now Hueco. I'll be heading home in a few days and hopefully will be able to get up some media and go in to more detail about the trip. For now I just wanted to throw up a quick update.

Arkansas was cold as balls - the first day was even too cold to climb. Afterwards though it warmed up and I was able to do a few things on my list including Flash Gordon (v9), One Inch Pinch (v12), Moondie (v9), Glass Bowl (v10), and Bloody Knuckles (v11). Brad Weaver unlocked bomber knee bar beta on Anti-Hero which makes the boulder easier despite the recently broken hold and then it started raining. We left a day early.

Hueco has been nice though - the land of never ending sunshine. I have been happy with my climbing here. Jimmy and I were able to quickly dispatch El Techo (v11) on our first day in the park and by day two I was able to climb Diabolique (v13). I have spent a couple days trying Full Throttle (v13) and yesterday fell from the last move 5 times. I'm heading back in the morning to try and finish it. Can't wait!

I guess that's all for now,