Wednesday, June 30, 2010

Unshackled v10

Here's a quick video of John Gass climbing Unshackled at Lincoln Lake:


Sunday, June 27, 2010


Ok so here are the videos as promised. Enjoy.

Part 1:

Part 2:

Park Days

The past few days at the park have been fun and I've been able to get up a few boulders as well. Most notably I was able to climb Nuthin but Sunshine (v13). We have gotten lots of video and it should be up in the next couple days. In the mean time here are some photos:

Me on Golden Rows of Flows (v10)
photo: Jimmy Webb

John on Golden Rows of Flows
photo: Jimmy Webb

John on Barbed Wire Beard (v10/11)

- Brion

Tuesday, June 22, 2010


So I cut my hair - shaved it. Well not fully shaved, but its about a quarter of an inch long and after quite a long string of failures I was even considering war paint on climbing days but fortunately it never came to that.

Sunday was a great day and we got it all on video (check the hair). Here it is (my first edit):

and here is a picture I took of Nate climbing Gangbang (v8):

I owe some of my success to the fact that I got some new shoes. All I have to say is that the Team 5.10s are the best shoes ever made. Their perfect mix of sensitivity and edging power along with a bomber heal and the best rubber on the market have really helped me get up some boulders lately. Check them out!


Friday, June 11, 2010


Climbers are intimately familiar with failure. It haunts their projects and looms eerily overhead until vanquished by some stronger force. Recently I have been lost in a fog of failure. For two weeks I have failed to climb even one boulder. It's a difficult pill to swallow. Sure, I have been close on several difficult boulders and I have had some trouble with forearm pain, but embracing this failure and remaining confident in the face of it is one of the most difficult things I have ever had to do. I'm confident though that things will come together in the end.