Bishop Slideshow

Ok, so we didn't get a lot of video footage on the trip because the camera died and we couldn't charge it. But thanks to Jo Beth we did get a lot of picture footage. Rather than just posting the best of them, I chose to make a slideshow. In order of appearance it includes footage of me climbing High Plains Drifter (v7), The Mandala (v11), The Buttermilker (v13), Checkerboard (v8) and Xavier's Roof (v11) and Jimmy climbing the Buttermilker as well.

The rest of my Bishop pics will be up as soon as I get around to editing them.

-Brion

Bishop Video

Jimmy already put together a video of me climbing Stained Glass (v10), Haroun and the Sea of Stories (v11), and A Scanner Darkly (v12). Check it out! Also, pics from the trip will be up shortly. I'm off the the gym.

The List

I've spent the last couple days chipping away at my Bishop ticklist. It's now down to 2 problems: Spectre (v13) and Xavier's Roof (v11). That's not to say I've climbed all the problems on it, but at least I've tried.

Here's my original list:

1. The Mandala
2. The Buttermilker
3. The Swarm
4. Spectre
5. Stained Glass
6. Checkerboard
7. Xavier's Roof
8. Haroun and the Sea of Stories

Of the original eight, six problems remained on my list after our first two climbing days:

1. The Swarm
2. Spectre
3. Stained Glass
4. Checkerboard
5. Xavier's Roof
6. Haroun and the Sea of Stories

Here's how everthing has gone down since then:

Tuesday:

Stained Glass - after a quick warm up we ran up the hill to try this crimpy masterpiece. After a little bit of effort I managed to send from the obvious jug start.

Haroun and the Sea of Stories - Something about this place inspires me to give good 1st burns. Maybe it's the razor edges? Anyway, thanks to the beta spray from Jimmy I managed to pull a flash out of the bag.

Checkerboard - another flash. This is one of the most beautiful boulders ever!

My list after Tuesday:

1. The Swarm
2. Spectre
3. Xavier's Roof

Wednesday:

The Swarm - Basically hiked up and got shut down! There are some small edges on this baby - probably the smallest I've ever tried to pull on. Maybe next year?

But the day wasn't a total waste. Jimmy and I both managed to climb A Scanner Darkly (v12) and A Form Destroyer (v12). I also climbed a really awesome v9 called Queen Sweet Nectar.

That's basically it. We're heading out tomorrow to try Spectre and Ronnie Jenkins is driving in tomorrow night.

Very excited!

-Brion

The Mandala

So it's been two days since the Chatty crew rolled into Bishop, CA and we have been making the most of Spring Break '10. I came here with a list of 8 problems:

1. The Mandala
2. The Buttermilker
3. The Swarm
4. Spectre
5. Stained Glass
6. Checkerboard
7. Xavier's Roof
8. Haroun and the Sea of Stories

and after two climbing days I have been able to tick the Buttermilker (v13) and flash the Mandala. I have little to say about the Buttermilker - it's a hard powerful boulder and I was extremely happy to climb it. Instead I would like to focus attention on the Mandala.

Recently this boulder has been getting a lot of attention. The start in particular has been drawing a lot of controversy. Should the boulder start on the two edges and move into the undercling left hand as the first ascentionist (Sharma) started? Or should it start left hand on the high edge and right hand already in the undercling? In this case though I think the answer (starting left hand on the high edge and right in the undercling) is obvious for several reasons:

1. The undercling is lower on the wall than one of the original start holds - it seems self explanatory. Simply starting with the right hand lower on the wall doesn't seem to pose any major problems. It does cut out 1 move, however, and I suppose this is what people have problems with. Would it be legitimate then to start right hand in the undercling, left on the lower edge, pull on and move left to the high edge before continuing the climb?

2. The boulder should be climbed in the easiest most direct manner possible - there is no questioning the beauty or purity of the Mandala; it is one of the most recognizable boulders in North America. To question something as trivial as beta on this amazing bloc seems to contrive the boulder. In my opinion this is an affront to the pure nature of the boulder and of climbing itself.

3. The undercling is such an obvious feature - it's not always the case that the first ascentionist climbs a boulder in the easiest, most obvious way possible. Boulders often experience a period of grade deflation after the first ascent (think Graham boulder in RMNP). This is in no way a bad thing. It simply shows that refined beta and its exposure (on the internet and over time) makes climbs easier than first perceived.

I would also like to discuss the grade of the boulder. The Mandala has been in the v12 range for a number of years but I don't think it belongs. The Mandala is a perfect example of a beautiful boulder that receives a lightly inflated grade as a result of its beauty. The Shield (v12) at Little Rock City is another example. Taking into account simply the difficulty of the movement, I think the Mandala (as well as the Shield) deserves a grade more in line with v11.

That being said, this boulder is an amazing testpiece and one of the most beautiful boulders I've ever climbed. I am psyched to climb on some of the other amazing boulders in Bishop. Tommorrow Jimmy and I are going out to try the Swarm. Wish us luck!

-Brion

5.10 Line King

In terms of fashion, wearability, and versatility 5.10 is still leading the way. Check out the new 5.10 Line Kings available now. These shoes are sick!

There are few shoes that make the transition from the street to the trail so brilliantly. Just thought I would share.

-Brion