Last Sunday (the 29th) I drove down to the Citadel to try and climb The Main Event (v12). The weather was not perfect, it was sprinkling rain and the humidity was high, but the rock was dry and I was determined to give it a good try. The Main Event starts on two good crimpers under a roof. After a long move to a miserable left hand crimper (now sporting two layers of spray paint), a high right foot, and a big double handed move to the top slopers, you have to hold a big swing. I managed to fall twice after failing to hold this swing. I was so psyched! Unfortunately, my excitement about the possibility of ticking the last problem on my list caused my worst climbing related injury to date. After a couple more failed attempts I felt a pop in my right ring finger. Instant pain. I immediately knew there would be no send, no more climbing today, and possibly no climbing for a while. "Shit!"
I have put a couple of hours of research into it now and from what I understand I have a flexor unit strain. These injuries occur most commonly in the ring finger, and then most often while gripping holds with three fingers in the open-handed position (as I was). A flexor unit strain is a strain to a flexor tendon, not a pulley, and, in comparison to pulley injuries, there is little literature on the subject. The best source I've found is an article by Dave MacLeod. In it Dave provides some criteria for self-diagnosis of finger injuries as well as treatments for them. Here is a link to article: Finger Injuries.
Right now I am just laying low, doing lots of abs, pull-ups, push-ups, running, and working out in the gym. I'm going to give my finger a week or two and go from there. If you have any advice about or experience with finger injuries I would love to hear it.
Trying to stay positive,