Thursday, April 16, 2009

Pep Boys

I am beyond psyched! John Gass and I went out to Pep Boys today. Due to my tendon injury, it was the first time I'd been climbing outside in almost three weeks and I was still worried about weighting it. After warming up on some classic tall climbs my finger was feeling ok and I was psyched to try Salo's Roof (v10). In a surprising fashion I was able to flash the boulder. John gave a few solid tries but his skin wasn't holding up very well and he didn't manage the send.

I also tried the Gross Roof (v11) but the crux seemed to be matching a right hand crimp and my tendon wasn't having it- no send. I will definitely be back to finish off this one once my finger is feeling 100% again. John and I spent the rest of the day messing around on some easier climbs.

There seems to be some strange controversy surrounding this area and while I have the chance I'd like to get in my two cents worth. It seems that many locals are worried that this tiny area might be overrun by climbing noobs if the word get out. Truth is, despite the quality of the problems here, the location, parking difficulties, and a simple lack of boulder problems will prevent the "LRCization" of the area. No need to worry.



  1. Nice voges!!!
    Agreed.. the area is incredible! but it lacks the quantity of easy blocs..
    and the parking is marginal.
    Nice flash on salo's roof! Glad you enjoyed the area.
    Did you try the problem across from salo's?

  2. I tried it a couple of times but it was greasy and my finger is still really weak. I'm going to try and head down tuesday to do that one and the Gross Roof so hopefully my finger will be feeling ok. If you are getting out this weekend give a shout. Lets go climb some routes!!