Wednesday, January 6, 2010

Too Cold?

So the crew was at Horse Pens Tuesday in the 20 degree weather. I guess we thought it would be a little warmer 100 miles south... It wasn't really, and the HP slopers felt like straight glass. I had my sights set on Skeletor (v10) though, and after a warm up I was determined to give some good efforts. After some really slippery times, I unlocked the key beta - sweaty hands. Still, halfway through the boulder my hands would be icy again and I found myself hanging on horrible slopers breathing on my tips to heat them up. No dice. This boulder is f-ing hard/I need good conditions/damn slopers! I moved on.

Last time at the Pens I had gotten close on Jimmy's Matchmaker (v11) and I was syked to go polish it off. After a beta tweak/total overhaul I climbed it for the second ascent. Way syked! Video should be up soon.

Oh, and Wednesday I went up to try Seven Eleven (v10). I was successful but used slightly different beta than Jimmy and Nate. Instead of the crazy campus, I did a right heel hook, a terrible left toe scum, and moved right hand to the first hold. Crazy stuff and probably the only other beta possible on the climb. I've got no footage or pics but here is the video of Nate Draughn sending:

Also, here's a pic of Nate nearly sending Breadloaf Factory low last week:

That's it for now,


1 comment:

  1. never too cold. at least you're not out on the sidelines with a slightly rolled ankle.

    lame city. good to see you're out in the snow.