Tuesday, July 6, 2010


We went up to Lincoln Lake again yesterday... It was a nice day - sunny and windy.

After the warm up I was feeling pretty good and I was psyched on trying Daniel's The Great War for Civilisation (v13). I ended up falling off the last move 4 times... bummer. The last move is this huge right handed lurch to a sidepull sloper. The hold is extremely difficult to see and hitting it right is tough. From there its a simple left hand move to a jug. Here's a picture Nate took of me midway through the boulder. (the last hold is at the very top of the frame). next time...

On the bright side I ended up climbing this beautiful slab/face for its first ascent. The boulder starts on a nice protruding shelf feature with a big right foot and climbs up and right over another boulder. It ended up being a dyno from the shelf up and right to a sidepull jug at the lip. The downside is that you have to pick your feet up really high to avoid dabbing on the other boulder. I decided to call it Purple Is Not a Color. As for the grade, v10 seems appropriate though it may be easier (its an extremely weird problem). Here's a pic:

Also, here is a video of Nate climbing Unshackled and Whispers of Wisdom:


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