Thursday, September 16, 2010


It seems that everyone is getting stuff done...except me. School is in full effect now and time for climbing seems to be disappearing. I've been getting into the air-conditionerless gym a lot though - really the only viable option this time of year being that it's still 90 degrees in Chatt. Jimmy and I have set some hard boulders including simulators of both Lost in the Hood and Wood Grain Grippin'. I'm determined, and I've begun to feel that its possible, to climb my first v14(s?) this winter. I've also been working - saving for a trip to South Africa in June - I'm very psyched. The list of boulders to climb there is huge, I mean it's SOUTH AFRICA for christ's sake!

Anyway, relief is in sight as far as the weather goes - some trees have started to change colors (though I'm not sure if it's due to falling temperatures or lack of rain) and October is around the corner. I can't wait until it cools enough for projects around the South and Arkansas weekends.

I've also been climbing in some of the new 5.10 phantoms and I would like to give them a small shout out. The Phantoms are a purple, downturned, lace-up perfect for routes but still good on boulders. They climb well on both faces and overhangs, fit in pockets, are solid on edges and can even smear! They fit very similar to the Anasazi lace-ups. Though you can't buy them yet, be on the lookout for these and a bunch of other new models this fall and spring.

Finally, I wanted to post some links to vids that are gettin' me psyched. Here they are:

Paul Robinson climbing Lost in the Hood (v14)

Paul Robinson climbing Wood Grain Grippin' (v14)

Jesse Bonin climbing Derailed (v14)

Nalle climbing Sky (v14)



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