Sunday, January 31, 2010
Friday, January 29, 2010
Also, earlier this week Jimmy, Brad Weaver and I filmed a short video with Brant Hawkins of Projekt Media. The film will feature me climbing The Law (v11), Jimmy climbing Western Gold (v11), and Brad on Lord of the Dance (v11). A big thanks to Brant for putting up with our antics, for his excellent camera skills, and for making us look cooler than we really are.
Jimmy, Brad and I had a good day yesterday climbing on some of Chattanooga's finest river boulders. Brad and I both climbed a line called Damn Yankees (v9).
Afterwards, we were all psyched to go try a project. I'll just say it's not a project anymore! The crew took it down with three sends and decided on the name: Southern Slang (southern v11). The line is a crimpy roof with a difficult last move from a sloping crimper to a sloper/edge on the lip. Here is an old picture of me trying it:
After countless failed attempts, we decided to skip the bad lip hold and dyno to the jug about 8 inches higher. It worked and Brad sent for the FA. Nice work hommes! You have to really want this one as the dyno tends to cause a little pain. My arm afterwards was red and pretty swollen:
Then Jimmy decided to jump from boulder to boulder over the rushing water:
He barely made it back...
Also, we spent last Monday climbing rocks in Alabama the beautiful. I managed the second ascent of Jimmy's Mega Man (v11) and also a flash of Hustle and Flow (v10). Video should be up soon!
Yesterday I was extremely psyched to find a pair of 5.10 Yosemite Jeans at my door. If you are looking for a pair of comfortable jeans to climb in these are for you. Unlike most other jeans, they have some stretch and a wide enough leg to allow a good range of motion. I'm psyched to put them through some climbing days to see how they hold up.
That's all for now,
Saturday, January 23, 2010
Wednesday, January 20, 2010
Tuesday, January 19, 2010
It was nice though to spend time enjoying simple movement on easier climbs, to enjoy climbing for climbing's sake rather than for difficulty. I took some pictures as well but there is only 1 worth posting. Here's Nate Drolet climbing a beautiful v5 face (I don't know the name):
Tuesday, January 12, 2010
Wednesday, January 6, 2010
Last time at the Pens I had gotten close on Jimmy's Matchmaker (v11) and I was syked to go polish it off. After a beta tweak/total overhaul I climbed it for the second ascent. Way syked! Video should be up soon.
Oh, and Wednesday I went up to try Seven Eleven (v10). I was successful but used slightly different beta than Jimmy and Nate. Instead of the crazy campus, I did a right heel hook, a terrible left toe scum, and moved right hand to the first hold. Crazy stuff and probably the only other beta possible on the climb. I've got no footage or pics but here is the video of Nate Draughn sending:
That's it for now,
Monday, January 4, 2010
Also, here is more footage from our trip to Hueco. Sorry I didn't manage to get send footage of Full Throttle but here's a good attempt at least.
On a completely different subject, has anyone else noticed that the V-scale is being replaced by the Font scale? It's not very consequential, but it's worth noticing.My skin has been burning today but I'm hoping it cools down by tomorrow so I can get out. Until then.