Friday, October 23, 2009


So Arkansas was cool. Lots of climbing and a couple days of good weather. We spent the first day at Fred's Cave where Jimmy and I quickly did Buddy (v10). I was also able to do Chunk Up the Deuce (v12) and Jimmy finished off One Inch Pinch (v12). I tried One Inch Pinch and fell off the last move about 5 times ripping flappers on my left index and middle fingers. The next morning I woke up to stinging skin and decided to take it easy. The same day Nate and Kasia both completed Numerical Methods (v8) a cool arete on amazing rock.

My skin was still hurting the next day when we headed out for the Zone (v12). After 2 hours spent stomping down the Arkansas wilderness Jimmy and I finally found the problem. Jimmy was psyched, me, not so much. I think my morning redbull was wearing off. Anyway, after trying to warm up and climbing a v7 roof climb I decided to call it. Jimmy crushed the Zone, a power boulder that must have been made for him, and we hiked back to the ranch. Check the vid:

My skin was feeling slightly better the next morning. On our way out of town we decided to swing by Fred's Cave so I could try to finish off One Inch Pinch. No dice. The morning air was humid and I couldn't manage the send. Can't wait to go back and complete this one. The same day Jimmy and I did a cool line called Center Spooge (v10) which climbs the center of a tall face at Fontain Red. The boulder was a bit contrived and I think a little soft for v10 but it climbs well and it's very prominent. I was also able to do Fred's Cave which people still call v11. After falling off the last move on the flash and finishing second go, I would say v10 is more appropriate. Jimmy also did the PCP traverse and a line called Broken Earth. Meanwhile my skin failed completely.

I have a lot to get back to in Arkansas. One Inch Pinch, The Zone, Anti-hero, Loved By Few Hated by Many, and Glass Bowl are at the top of my list. I also have some photos from the trip to post later this week.



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