More Rain, More Training

It's training time in Chattanooga a.k.a. it's raining again. It's been raining all week, and I've spent a lot of time indoors training. Since I'm always interested in how other climbers train, I thought it might be interesting to post my recent training regimen. I am by no means an expert on the subject so feel free to make comments and suggestions. Also, training for climbing is still quite a new concept and we could all really use feedback.

1. Running - Nothing too serious here. I have been doing 30 minutes or 3.5 miles which ever comes first. I like to keep the pace slow and steady for a long period of time to get my heart rate up without building leg muscle.
Frequency: every other day, 3 times a week.

2. Stretching - Definitely an area I don't know much about. I usually just do a little bit of everything but nothing in particular. Any suggestions?
Frequency: every day.

3. Hangs - I like to do about 20 minutes a day. 3 8-12 second hangs per hold type (ex. small pinches, wide pinches, small crimps, big crimps, slopers) and usually in the range of 5-7 hold types. 1 minute timed rests between hangs. I think it's important to pick holds you typically struggle with. For instance, if you are better at crimps, concentrate on slopers or pinches. Be sure to take this into account when purchasing a hangboard or other training devices. I just got a new one, the Etch Motherboard, check it out:

Frequency: every day.

4. Ab Ripper X - Look it up on Google videos. 11 sets, 25 reps, 16 minutes - the ultimate ab workout.
Frequency: every other day.

5. Bouldering for power - The fun stuff. I typically do a couple hours of power intensive bouldering whenever my body is feeling up to it. Again, I don't have a prescribed amount and sometimes I get carried away. I've found that the amount of power training you do simply depends on how you feel.
Frequency: whenever it suits me.

6. Endurance - Again, I am definitely not an expert. The frequency and intensity of an endurance workout, for me at least, differs from day to day. Because I'm not crazy about getting mad pumped, this has always been a difficult area for me to find motivation to train. I've found that endurance comes quickly when I'm psyched on a route or long boulder outside. Also, excess power seems to make up for a lack of endurance.
Frequency: whenever it suits me.

7. Upper Body - I have recently started doing a little more upper body work. After tearing his ACL, Ronnie Jenkins and I have been doing a pull up intensive workout that makes you wish you were dead. Start with 3 sets of 12 pull ups, resting only long enough for a partner to go. Continue with 3 sets of 3 frenchies. 1 frenchie is actually a set of 3 full pull ups... pull up, hold at full lock off for 5 sec., lower, pull up, lower until your arms are bent at 90 degrees, hold for 5 sec., lower, pull up, lower until your arms are only slightly bent, hold for 5 sec., lower. We continue with 3 sets of 1 one-arm frenchies (hold each position for 2 seconds). Then its L-hangs. We have been doing 3 sets of 3 pull-ups while holding the L-hang position and waiting 8 seconds between pulls. That's a total of 3 pull ups and 40 seconds in the L-hang position. And if we aren't completely dead by then, 3 sets of 5 second front levers finishes the job.
Frequency: every other day.

In other news, I'm on fall break now and Jimmy, Kasia, Nate, and I are heading to Arkansas this weekend to get out of the rain. It's a new area with new boulders and I am psyched! The weather looks bomber too! Check back next week for an update on that one.

Brion