Saturday, June 6, 2009


The rain has let off for the last 4 days or so and we have been able do get down to some serious business. Here is an account of my recent Colorado adventures.

Thursday: Jon, Nate, and I got up to Boulder Canyon hoping to climb Cage Free (v11) and Hard Boiled (v11). After battling direct sunlight and getting a serious sunburn, I sent Cage Free. Here is the full sequence:

Afterwards, Jon was able to finish off Hard Boiled, a climb that begins under a small roof on sharp holds and climbs out onto a beautiful face. 

Nate climbing Hard Boiled v11

Nate and I didn't manage to send but we will be back. And with beta. 

Friday the three of us walked up to Mt. Evans. My goal was to do the classic v11, Super Gui. After surviving the hike, warming up, and catching my breath, I decided to try and flash Dali (v9). I did, and after trying it years ago, Nate also climbed Dali first try. Here is the video:

After a little extra work, Jon and I both managed sends of Super Gui. The same day I also sent Gorillas in the Mist (v10). 
Saturday was the first rest day for Nate and I and the three of us drove to Vail for the World Cup. The climbing was impressive and the sun was hot. I added a sunburned face and neck to my already burned back. This is what I turned into after standing in the sun for a solid 6 hours, eating only granola samples, and being jostled around by hundreds of photographers and all their equipment.

It was fun, though, and it reminded me what a small part of climbing I really am.

Yesterday we were at Mt. Evans again and I was psyched to get back on the Dali boulder and try No More Greener Grasses (v12) and Clear Blue Skies (v12). Morning temps were perfect and I after a couple goes to sus out the beta I sent Greener Grasses. Check the video:

For those of you who do not know my climbing style, this is it: small holds, big moves, steep terrain.

Afterwards, I was determined to give a good flash go on Clear Blue Skies. I fell on the last move and the last crimper sliced my finger. I slapped on some of that yummy tape, did the last move, and tried from the bottom a couple more times. No send but I can't wait to go back with fresh skin and finish it. 

Then it was back to area B to do the Jason Kehl highball Last Dance (v8). I managed this one second go and just as I was topping out at 25 feet the snow started falling. The snow continued for the next 30 minutes before blue skies reappeared over the top of the mountain. 10 minutes later the topout was dry and Jon was also able to climb the problem. Video should be up soon.

Today was my first visit to RMNP, and though we had planned to hike to Upper Chaos to try Wildcat (v12), the weather had other plans for us. Instead, we decided to try and find Stinkbug (v10/11). After some scrambling we found the problem and Jon and Max managed ascents. I had no psych for the problem because it lacks a distinct line. Afterwards, we drove down to Veritas assis (v11). After about an hour of work I managed to send. Sorry, no pics. 

Though I am extremely happy with my climbing endeavors this past week I am ready to challenge myself. I am ready to fail at something in order to get stronger. Now, with only 1 day of rest in 8 it is time to relax and heal my skin.

Thanks to JG for the pics and video.


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